Schmid route, Matterhorn (TD,V,4+,M5,1280m)

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Topo for Schmid route, Matterhorn N face: click here, here and here.

After finding out the route was in excellent condition, the idea of climbing it was discussed at Chamonix’s swimming pool. As we were 4 people, we decided to climb in two teams: Mihnea Radulescu & Pascal/Sorin Nichiforiuc & myself.

So the next day, 1st October 2014, 3 Romanians and one French are happily walking down the streets of Zermatt gazing at the beautiful Mont Cervin.

Logistic: cable car from Zermatt to Schwartzsee Paradise station (2583m), than a hike to refuge Hornli (3260 m) – which at the moment is closed for maintenance.

Our bivy spot at the base of Matterhorn had a nice panoramic view towards SE, with Monterosa, Klein Matterhorn and the ski slopes that were opened at this time of year. There were footprints marking the start of our route and the traverse on the glacier, so we tried to memorize the line, to make it easier for the night start.

We left our bivy at 3.30 am. The climb was nice, not hard in particular, but long. A lots of traversing make it quite easy to get lost, so you have to pay attention all the time. The last 200 m to exit in Zmutt ridge are easy but difficult to protect.

At 7:00 pm we were exiting in Zmutt ridge and then summited Matterhorn (4478m) at 7:43 pm. The descent via Hörnli ridge took us longer than we expected, we got to Solvay hut at 1 am and finally got a good sleep.

Below you will find some photos from our climb. I am grateful that I could share this experience with Mihnea, Pascal and finally, special thanks goes to Sorin Nichiforiuc, who trusted & allowed me to be his partner for this commitment climb. It meant a lot to me.

Equipment: 2 half ropes (50 m), 9 ice screws (short ones are very useful), 1 set of cams (size 00 – 1).

IMG_7522_1_fb IMG_7545_1_fb IMG_7603_1_fb IMG_7630_fb IMG_7646_1_fb IMG_7664_1_fb IMG_7668_fb IMG_7682_1_fb IMG_7682_2_fb IMG_7685_fb IMG_7689_1_fb IMG_7689_2_fb IMG_7696_1_fb IMG_7709_1_fb IMG_7709_3_fb IMG_7711_1_fb IMG_7712_2_fb IMG_7733_2_fb IMG_7736_fb IMG_7738_1_fb IMG_7745_2_fb IMG_7748_fb IMG_7765_fb

 

More photos from our climb you may find here.

 

 

2 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. sorin
    Oct 13, 2014 @ 20:00:02

    Bravo , Catalin …sint un mare admirator…al tau . Intr-o zi ma vad si eu acolo…dar poate in alta viata..! Succes..!!!

    Reply

  2. adi
    Oct 20, 2014 @ 23:54:25

    Superbe imaginile, ca de obicei. Ma bucur ca ai revenit online și împărtășești și cititorilor frumusețea acestor meleaguri. Felicitări pentru tura și mult succes pe viitor.

    Reply

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