Frendo spur (D, III, 5c, 80°,1200m)

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Date: 13 Aug 2016

Climbing partner: Elena

Topo Frendo Spur: here

Route description: here

 

On 12 Aug 2016 we took the 17:00 cable car up to intermediate station of the Aiguille du Midi and bivouacked 100 m further up.

Departure time/duration:

03:45 – Start from bivouac

10:00 – Finish the rock part

12:30 – Finish the ice part

13:00 – Aig du Midi lift

We’ve climbed the rock part of the route only in mountain boots, the difficulties are not the grade of the climb on the rock part (5c) but more in route finding and the length.  Pay attention also at the loose terrain, there are some big rocks that are moving!

Make sure you get to the upper part (snow ridge and ice) early in the day to climb it in good condition!

All in all, a fantastic N face route in a complex alpine terrain. Highly recommended!

Gear we used: one 50 m half rope, 8 quickdraws, friends BD C4 (#0.3-#1.0), few slings, 5 ice screws, crampons and 2 technical ice axes.

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More photos: here