Date of climb: 26 Oct 2015
Climbing partner: Gareth Hughes
Topo for Macho Direct_Tacul: here
The story starts with: <<Hey Gareth, I have just seen some pictures posted on Facebook by Jon Bracey with “Macho Direct”. The route looks in good conditions…>>. <<Yeah? I haven’t climb it, sounds good, let’s do it!>>
Actually what I saw was a memory shared by Jon from Sept 2014. Luckily, the route was in condition in Oct 2015 as well.
First cable car up to Aig du Midi (no skis this time), and we start the climb at 09:30. First 400m of the route is not difficult so we simul climb and place minimum gear. It’s 13:00 when we start pitching the 100m couloir with short steep sections.
After the couloir, the next 2 pitches represents the crux of the route. As we switch leading, Gareth takes the first pitch, so the last one is mine. The ice was thin in places and the protection is not so great. You need to be bold. The climb is sustained and very spectacular.
Once the crux was climbed, we follow a ramp in the right, some mixed and at 17:30 we are on top of Mt Blanc du Tacul (4248m).
From the summit of Tacul , we decided to continue towards Triangle du Tacul and abseil via Chere Couloir as the normal route down was not in safe conditions. It took us some time to abseil in the night, so we got at Aig du Midi lift at 22:30, just in time to take a good sleep.
To conclude: Great route, but not to be underestimated! You need to be fast to climb it in a day from the Aig du Midi cable car. The crux is bold and the fact that there are no fixed belays in the entire route, add some spice as well. Highly recommended!
More photos from “Macho Direct”: here