Selected climbs

Climbing in ALPS:

Peuterey Integral ( TD+ / 3 / 5c /VI )

“Climbing Aig Noire South Ridge (the first section of Peuterey Integral ) where you have some steps of 5c with a big backpack it’s quite demanding. We managed to keep our backpacks under 10 kg and it was the right way to do it. ” (… read more )

 

Cecchinel-Nomine/Boivin-Vallencant – Grand Pilier d’Angle ( TD+/ED1, 5c, A1, 900 m)

“This is a 900 m mixed route situated in the NE face of GPA (Grand Pilier d’Angle- 4308 m), that starts from the Brenva Glacier up to the top of GPA. From the summit of GPA you still have to climb 500 m to the top of Mont Blanc(4810m), which makes this route a major undertaking.” (…read more)

 

Grand Capucin, Swiss Direct (TD+ /VII/ 300m)

“At 5.30 in the morning we got up, and left our tents by 6.30 am. There were other teams already in front of us crossing the bergschrund, but we hopped they will climb other routes in Grand Capucin. Unfortunately, 7 teams (including us) entered that day on the same route (“Swiss Direct”) while other two teams started on ”O sole mio” and other team started on “Bonatti”. (…read more )

 

Ginat, Les Droites (TD+, V, M4+, 1000m)

“In the last week of March 2012, I was in the Alps with Silvia. Our main objective was Ginat in Les Droites. Topo for Ginat and more info about this superb route (approach, descent, slope inclination, difficulty, length) you can find…” (…read more)

 

Climbing in Romania:

Tina -the climbing dog, Arpasel ridge, Fagaras Mountains

“So, back on 2 April 2006… At 5.30 am we started our approach, leaving Balea and Paltinu Chalet behind. It was me, Corina and… a small black dog full of energy. ” (… read more )

 

Furcile, Bucegi Mountains

“Furcile (4A, 6-, 5+ A0) is the first ”vertical” climbing route opened in Romania, Bucegi Mountains in the N face of Galbenele Wall (250 m height). It was first climbed in October 1935 by 3 pioneers of our alpinism: Niculae Baticu, Ion Trandafir and Dan Popescu with only 7 pegs ! (… read more )

 

 

Lespezi-Caltun North Wall, Fagaras Mountains

“On 11 March 2012, we’ve climbed Lespezi-Caltun North Wall, situated in Fagaras Mountains. Silvia was leading for all the 6 or 7 pitches of mixed ground until the top (Lespezi peak-2517 m). Not too difficult, but not very easy either.” (… read more)

 

Coltul Balaceni, Fagaras Mountains

“During 31 Dec-02 Jan 2012 we enjoyed a small vacation and did some winter climbing in this remote and special place from Romania…” (…read more)

 

 

Arpasel-Vartopel (W-E), Fagaras Mountains

“… is the most technical part of the main ridge of Fagaras Mountains. You can either climb it from W-E (as we did it, and it’s the most demanding) or from E-W…” (…read more )

 

Ice climbing at Balea Lake

“On 19 Nov 2011 we’ve been out in Fagaras Mountains again. This time, for playing with our ice-axes and crampons. There is a ice-fall next to Balea Lake. Not huge, but enough for us to taste again the ice.” (…read more)