Date of climb: 23 Feb 2017 Climbing partner: Alex Lungan Topo for Scotch on the rocks, Tacul: here
This is my first mixed route I did with Alex Lungan – my colleague from work and the only Romanian I know that lives in Chamonix and does alpine climbing.
10:00 we leave the skis at the base of the climb and start the first pitch. The climb is good, we are the only team today in the route.
We prefer to climb in small pitches, so there is no too much rope drag.
As we switch leading, I find myself leading the crux and I was happy to free it. There are 2 insitu pegs in the crux, and you can protect very well with a cam #3. We didn’t have a #4 with us, which is good to have, but not mandatory.
After the crux, Alex climbed one more long pitch which we both found very loose. It is suppose to be much easier with ice on it, but now it was like a dry runnel. We stopped where the terrain gets low angle and we start abseiling as it was 16:40 already.
Back to our skis and down on Vallee Blanche to end up a good day out.
After climbing M6 Solar with Mihnea, we were both looking for a bigger challenge. The conditions in the big alpine routes are not great at the moment around Chamonix. All is dry. What shell we climb?
We decided to give it a go to Eugster Direct, a winter route that is not so often climbed as other routes in Aig du Midi N Face. Jon Griffith writes about Eugster Direct in his blog : “…it is not a route to be under-estimated as it is very long (1600m from hut to summit) and the difficult section can be very tricky when it is dry.”
As we decided to start the route early, we got the last cable car on Thursday and slept at Plan d’Aiguille Refuge.
Plan d’Aiguille Reffuge
The winter room
Friday morning, we started at 04:30 from the refuge. The approach to the base of the climb took us 2 hours. The bergshrund is very easy to pass. We managed to climbe unroped all the 500 m of easy terrain of the couloir with short sections of steep. We put the rope on as we got to the base of the 6 pitches of proper climbing.
Eugster direct, the first in the left
Sunrise over the valley
It’s 09:30. The route we have to climb looks bone dry. Well, we are here for the party, so, let’s dance!
First pitch I started on a ramp of ice, but after only 4 meters, all the ice is gone and I have to find my way in some loose rock, navigating from left to the right and then left again to the belay: 2 good pegs tide with a red cord. It was a tricky pitch to climb.
Mihnea following 1st pitch
dry tooling in the 1st pitch
The 2nd pitch starts steep, looks spectacular but is short. It takes you left onto a small ridge on the top of a pillar.
Mihnea leading 2nd pitch
The 3rd pitch was long but not so hard. I’ve climbed more than 60m and stopped to make a belay as I was running out of gear.
The 4th pitch was hard. Mihnea climbed all the way towards the huge wedged block, and, as there was no ice, he could not climb in the right hand side (as it’s says in the topo), but had to pass under the block. There are 2 pegs in the crux. The exit above the block is very physical. I know this for sure, as I took a fall while seconding. Well done Mihnea, strong leading!
Going wild in the 4th pitch
Mihnea kept climbing until our 60m rope finished. Then he made a belay just before the last crux.
Mihnea belaying under last crux
As I followed him, I realized I have to continue with the direct exit, as we have passed the alternate exit in the left (see the topo).
The last crux was a short overhang and had no ice in it, but sugar snow. All I remember is that I was desperately fighting against gravity to gain 5 m in a very loose terrain with poor rock pro. Finally, it’s done! I felt the pressure releasing from my mind and that put joy in my heart. The route is in our pocket now.
On the top of difficulties
The 6th pitch (and the last) should be very easy with ice, but now is just a low angle scary chimney with loose rocks. Trying to step/hold on something that isn’t breaking is the game that Mihnea is playing on this last pitch.
Last pitch, loose rocks.
As we get into the snowfield, we meet a French team that climbed Eugster Diagonal (a “D” rated route) with skis on their backpacks. We saw them in the morning following our track in the couloir.
We finish the last 150m up on Mallory-Porter placing some ice screws between us. It’s 17:30 when we get to the Midi lift. Unfortunately we missed the last cable car down by 30 minutes, so we have to spend the night at Midi’s toilets. Mihnea was supposed to drive back home to Romania that night, now he has to do it next day. But he is very positive and happy to have climbed the route.
Snowfield before Midi
Yes, we made it!
That’s where we sleep!
Thanks Mihnea for such an adventure!
To conclude: 6 pitches of good Scottish VI,7! or M6…the last pitch is vey loose!
It took us longer than expected: 13 hours from Aig du Plan refuge to Midi top lift! So, plan wise!
Gear: 2x 60m, cams #0-#2 (you may double the #0.4 and #0.5), one set of wires, 4 ice screws. Maybe 2 pegs could be useful as well (we didn’t use).
As Mihnea (a Romanian Mountain guide) was in Chamonix keen for climbing, I came with the idea of climbing M6 Solar – a 200m mixed route in Pointe Lachenal rated M5+. I had fresh infos from Ovidiu Mihail that climbed it 2 weeks before. The route was dry, but looked fun in the pictures. Let’s do it!
First bin up to Aig du Midi, skiing quick to the base of Point Lachenal we could hope to be the first team in the route. But to our surprise, there was already a team of French girls in the 2nd pitch.
Switching from ski boots to mountain boots, we decided to take no backpack in the route with us. As I start climbing, I link the 1st and the 2nd pitch. There is one crux in the 2nd pitch, as you exit the dry chimney doing an athletic movement. But is well protected with a fixed gear in place (peg).
Next pitches are technical as well as there is no ice (no ice screws used) but good protection all the way and fun.
We found belays in place on entire route. We decided to climb to the top of Point Lachenal and then descend walking around. It’s much faster and you should consider the risk of getting stack your ropes when trying to abseil down the route.
As a gear wise, we have used cams #0.3-#2 and a set of wires. No pitons needed and no ice screws for the actual conditions.
Our time for the climb: 10:00 -start of climbing, 13:30 – back to the skis.
Date of climb: 26 Oct 2015 Climbing partner: Gareth Hughes Topo for Macho Direct_Tacul: here
This climb is not recent, it’s from Oct 2015. Still, I felt like it’s worthy to write about it and have it in my blog.
<<Hey Gareth, I have just seen some pictures posted on Facebook by Jon Bracey with “Macho Direct”. The route looks in good conditions…>>. <<Yeah? I haven’t climb it, sounds good, let’s do it!>>
Actually the pictures I saw were a memory shared by Jon from Sept 2014. Luckily, the route was in condition in Oct 2015 as well. 🙂
First cable car up to Aig du Midi (no skis this time for the approach), and we start the climb at 09:30. The first 400m of the route is easy, so we simul climb placing minimum protection. It’s 13:00 when we start pitching the 100m couloir with short steep sections. See the topo.
After climbing up the couloir, the next 2 pitches represents the Crux. As we switch leading, Gareth starts climbing the first pitch, as I prepare mentally for the last one. The ice was thin in places and the protection was not great. The climb is sustained and very spectacular.
Once the crux was climbed, we followed a ramp in the right, some easy mixed terrain and at 17:30 we were on the top of Mt Blanc du Tacul (4248m).
From the summit of Tacul , we decided to continue towards Triangle du Tacul and abseil via Chere Couloir as the normal route down from Tacul was not in safe conditions. It took us some time to abseil in the dark, so we got at Aig du Midi lift at 22:30, just in time to take a good sleep.
To conclude: Great route, but not to be underestimated! There are no fixed belays, which adds some spice to the climb. Highly recommended!
Aug 2012 – Another day in Paradise, Piz Badile (TD, 6b, 600m). Partner: Silvia Murgescu
Jul 2013 – Paklenica, Aniča kuk, Croatia: Ljubljanski (6a+, 220m), Nidia (6b+, 160m), Nostalgija (6b, 350m), Funkcija (6c+, 300m), Velebitaski (6a+, 350m), The show must go on (6c, 280m). Partner: Silvia Murgescu
Aug 2014 – Monts Rouges de Triolet/Italy. Reglette da ballo (TD, 6a, 360m), Aspettando Astrubale (TD, 6b, 280m), Profumo Proibito (TD-, 6a, 270m), Tout Fou (ED, 6c, 260m), Cristallina (TD, 6a, 260m). Partner: Victor Dinu
18 May 2015 – La Contamine, Aig du Midi (ED-, 6c, 200m). Partner: Gareth Hughes
Date of climb: 2-3 Sept 2016 Climbing partners: Cristina Pogacean & Cosmin Andron Topo for Walker Spur: here
Back in 2010, I had a project to climb the Walker Spur in the N Face of GJ with Silvia Murgescu. As it was mid September and the snow was already in the wall, we changed our plans and climbed Kuffner ridge instead…
Vizez de ceva vreme Pilierul Walker din Grandes Jorasses (GJ) N Face. Mai precis, imi doream mult sa il catar cu Silvia Murgescu in anul 2010. A fost proiectul nostru de suflet, in care am investit timp si resurse. Din pacate, cand am ajuns noi in Alpi (la mijlocul lui Septembrie) deja ninsese in perete, si ruta nu mai era in conditii. Ne-am orientat atunci spre alceva, respectiv creasta Kuffner…
Meanwhile, I’ve climbed Matterhorn N Face in 2014 with Sorin Nichiforiuc and Eiger N Face in 2015 with Alex Holt. For 2016 I wanted so much to climb the N Face of GJ! And it happened !… in a team of 3 Romanians, with Cristina Pogacean and Cosmin Andron.
Intre timp au urcat Matterhorn N Face in anul 2014 cu Sorin Nichiforiuc, iar in 2015 cu Alex Holt am urcat Eiger N Face. Imi doream mult pentru anul 2016 sa fie Grandes Jorasses N Face. Si … a fost! Mult mai frumos decat imi puteam imagina, in echipa de 3 romani , cu Cristina Pogacean si Cosmin Andron.
The Walker Spur is not always in proper condition for climbing. When is too warm there is the danger of rock falling from the upper part and when it’s too cold and wet there is verglas (a thin coat of ice) on the rock.
Pilierul Walker intra destul de greu in conditii propice pentru a fi catarat. Atunci cand e prea cald, cad pietre din partea superioara a peretelui. Cand e prea umed si frig, se formeaza o pojghita de gheata pe stanca.
Early in this spring I spoke with Cosmin about climbing the Walker Spur if it will be in condition in late August and we even set up a fix date for the climb. The Leschaux refuge has a FB page where they write about the condition in the Gj N face. So lovely, thank you!
Am vorbit inca din primavara cu Cosmin Andron sa cataram Walker-ul in echipa de 3 daca va fi in conditii in ultima saptamana din luna August. Am urmarit cu sufletul la gura conditiile din peretele GJ. Exista pe Facebook o pagina a refugiului Leschaux, unde gardianul posteaza poze si ofera informatii despre starea peretelui Nordic din GJ. Cat de minunat!
And yes, the conditions are good for climbing. But as I need to do some extra work in August at my job, we have to push the date of climbing for the 1-3 September. I pray and hope that there will be no rain meanwhile. I call the refuge and book one night (1st Sept) for 3 people.
Si da, iata ca in luna August exista activitate in Pilierul Walker. Tremur de emotie si nerabdare, ma rog sa nu ninga pe sus, mai ales ca din motive de job va trebui sa impingem escapada pentru perioada 1-3 Septembrie. Intre timp se raceste si vin ceva precipitatii, dar ca printr-o minune cand sun la refugiu mi se spune ca un vant cald a protejat peretele Nordic si ruta e inca in conditii. Rezervam imediat pentru 01 Septembrie o noapte la refugiul Leschaux.
As we finish packing and head towards Montenvers train station, we meet o team of French guides. They have really lightweight backpacks comparing to ours as they go for one day climb in the Walker Spur. <<– Shell we try to climb it in one day, without bivouac?>> Cosmin and Cristina agree. So, we leave the sleeping bags at the car. I decide to take only my bivy sac (250g) just in case. And of course, I keep the GJ guide book with me in the bag, even if I took photos of it in my phone.
Facem bagajele, dimineata mancam bine si plecam spre trenuletul de Montenvers. Acolo intalnim o echipa de francezi (un ghid cu un aspirant ghid) care au aceleasi intentii. Doar ca bagajele lor sunt super-usoare. Nu au cu ei nimic pentru bivuac. <<-Incercam si noi la o zi?>> Cosmin si Cristina sunt de acord, asa ca ma ofer sa colectez saltelele, sacii de dormit si sacii de bivuac si sa ii duc inapoi la masina. Las totusi sacul meu de bivuac (250g) in rucsac, sa fie acolo, pentru orice eventualitate! Si mai fac un sacrilegiu: bag in rucsac si cartea (topoul) cu Grandes Jorasses, desi il aveam fotografiat in telefon. Ah, nu ma mai recunosc!!!
The approach to Leschaux refuge put my thoughts in order. It’s the first time to climb in this team but I feel confident. As I took a pair of technical ice axes and crampons with me, I will lead on the ice parts of the route while the “monkeys” will lead on the rock parts. The only thing that made me a little nervous was the descend part. We knew nothing about it, only that it’s very long and complex. Hopefully we will find tracks on it!
Apropierea pe ghetar spre refugiul Leschaux imi pune ordine in ganduri. Desi nu am mai catarat in aceasta formatie, ma simteam linistit si increzator. Odata intrati in traseu, pe portiunile de gheata aveam sa conduc eu intrucat aveam 2 pioleti si coltari tehnici, urmand ca pe portiunile mai tari de stanca sa conduca “maimutzele”, asa cum se alinta C&C. Despre lunga coborarea pe partea italiana, care este un traseu in sine si pe care nu o cunosteam, aveam insa ceva emotii. Speram sa gasim urme si ne doream sa o parcurgem pe lumina daca se poate.
Arriving at the refuge with 2 hours before dinner, we free our feet from the mountain boots and try to relax a bit. Cristina enjoys petting a big lazy cat that belongs to the guardian. It’s name is “Grand Jo”. As I watch the scene, I remember about another Romanian Lady that was climbing Walker Spur 35 years ago with her husband. Her story written by herself you will find here. La refugiul Leschaux am ajuns cu 2 h inainte de cina. Ne scoatem bocancii si ne relaxam. La soare leneveste o pisica mare cafenie (aflam ca numele ei e “Grand Jo”). Chipul Cristinei se lumineaza in timp ce o smotoceste cu drag . Gandul imi zboara involuntar la o alta Lady din Romania (Taina Dutescu) care cu 35 ani in urma (August 1981) urcase Pilierul Walker in echipa cu sotul ei Emil Coliban. Relatarea istorica scrisa chiar de ea o gasiti AICI.
Cosmin is studying the route using the binocular. There were 4 teams climbing Walker Spur in that day. Though it was 17:00, 2 teams were still in the lower part of the wall. We decide to have an early start tomorrow morning, around 01:30. The other team of guides will do the same. Just before dinner there is another team from Österreich that arrives at the refuge. They are tired from the long journey (10 h driving that day) and plan to bivy in the wall. So, we will be 3 teams climbing the Walker Spur next day!
Cosmin studiaza printr-un binoclu ruta. In perete in aceea zi erau 4 echipe! Desi timpul era destul de inaintat, doua echipe erau inca in portiunea inferioara a peretelui. Vorbim cu ghidul care ne spune ca va pleca la ora 01:30 de la refugiu. Convenim intre noi sa plecam la aceeasi ora. Intre timp mai ajunge la refugiu o echipa de austrieci care par foarte obositi. Ne povestesc ca au condus 10h de acasa pana aici si ca maine dimineata intra si ei in perete, dar cu material de bivuac. Deci vom fi 3 echipe in perete!
Next day we cross the bergschrund at around 04:30 and I start the first ice pitch. Then some mixed terrain till we decide to take off our crampons and climb with boots. Cosmin takes the lead. It’s already light outside as we are looking to find the entrance in the “Rebuffat-Allain corner”. A doua zi la lumina frontalelor incepem apropierea de perete. La ora 04:30 trecem ramaia si plec pe prima lungime de gheata. Urmeaza apoi ceva de mixt. In curand ne dam jos coltarii si ramanem in bocanci. Cosmin preia conducerea. Cand terenul devine dificil, trecem la papucii de escalada. E deja lumina afara cand incepem sa ne intrebam daca mai suntem pe ruta corecta.
A picture from the guide book shows us the way. The rock is cold and the backpack heavy but Cosmin is doing great leading this technical pitch. Ne salveaza o fotografie din cartea Grandes Jorasses. Identificam acolo “diedrul Rebuffat-Allain”, pe care Cosmin il escaladeaza cap de coarda. Escalada nu e usoara, stanca e rece si rucsacul din spinara te dezechilibreaza.
Another traverse section on slabs takes us to the “75m corner” which we climb in 2 pitches. As we climb, the views are amazing and the exposure getting huge. Another key section with a traverse and a pendulum abseil puts us at the base of the “black slabs”. Urmeaza apoi o traversare pe dale si catararea “diedrului de 75m” din doua lungimi de coarda. Ceva mai sus din nou un pasaj cheie pe care Cosmin il negociaza atent, o traversare pe dale si apoi un rapel in pendul. Fiind echipa de trei, totul ia mult mai mult timp.
Cosmin is inviting me to take the lead for this section that takes us up to the “Grey Tower”. At some point marked on the topo with “bold traverse right” I have difficulties in finding the line. I climb and down climb the section several times till my climbing partners declare they got completely frozen. Somehow I finally manage to find the route and we arrive at the the 2nd Cassin bivouac. From this point, Cristina will take the lead. Urmatorea sectiune imi revine mie, “black slabs” (dalles noires). Incepe cu o coarda fixa in traverseu dreapta si apoi urca pe mai multe lungimi de coarda spre “Grey Tower” (tour grise) pe care-l ocoleste prin dreapta. La un moment dat ma poticnesc la un traverseu si imi tin colegii in loc pana acestia se declara inghetati bocna. Ajung in bivuacul 2 Cassin de unde preia stafeta Cristina.
2 pitches takes us on the spur line where a cold wind is blowing. Another 2 pitches and we get to a bivy spot marked in the topo as R24. It means we have climbed half of the route, 24 pitches from a total of 40. It’s cold and late (19:00) by now and we are tired. Cristina and I are opting for a bivouac but Cosmin insists to keep going all night. I take the lead for the next pitch but soon I find myself in the dark with no clue where to climb. I abseil down to my friends and we start to prepare the bivouac place for the night.
Cu doua lungimi ajungem pe linia crestei unde ne i-a vantul in primire. Inca doua lungimi pe creasta si ne aflam la un alt loc de bivuac marcat pe topo ca si R24. Suntem deja la jumatatea peretelui (lungimea 24 din totalul de 40). E frig, ora e inaintata (19:00), suntem obositi si ne miscam in reluare. Eu si Cristina optam pentru bivuac. Cosmin insista sa continuam. Preiau conducerea fara prea mare chef si incerc sa catar inca o lungime, dar deja e intuneric si nu mai vad nimic. Le strig ca nu are rost sa ne chinuim, vom continua a doua zi …
The bivy place is a small ledge that has a nice view towards West, with Aig du Midi and Mont Blanc. It’s not big enough for us to lay down, but it’s ok if we seat on it like in a chair. Cosmin is organizing things at the belay point to which we will stay attached all night with slings. Cristina will seat between us, to be protected from the wind. We put ropes and backpacks underneath. With a knife we make a horizontal cut in my bivy sac (I don’t know which “monkey” did it! but I remembered I’ve been politely asked before the irreversible operation took place), so now we can all cover and maintain some heat from our bodys. I have the stove (Jetboil) with me and there is snow close to our ledge, so making a hot tea during the cold night will not be a problem. Neither the most luxury bivouac, nor the worse one! I would not lie to you saying we slept that night… Standing there under a magic sky full of stars, I remembered a funny scene that happened at the Financial Institution where I’ve worked more than 10 years in my past. One of my colleagues used to imagine himself winning at the Lottery and then making important presents to his colleagues: “X” will receive a “2 level house”. “Y” will get a “4 rooms apartment”. “Pobega” will receive a “one room apartment”. <<Why only “one room apartment” for me, Costi ?!>> And the answer was always: << -Because “one room apartment” is already big luxury for you as you are all the time into the mountains sleeping in your tent or wherever you can!>> And he was right, what more could I say? Bivouacking in the middle of the legendary Grandes Jorasses N Face wall under a sky full of stars in that moment made me feel like the richest man in the world! Locul de bivuac este o terasa mica cu vedere excelenta spre Vest, spre Aig du Midi si Mont Blanc. Incapem daca stam unul langa altul asezati in fund si sprijiniti cu spatele de perete. Cosmin consolideaza o regrupare in care ne legam cu anouri. Corzile si rucsacii sub noi. Gasesc ceva zapada in apropiere, deci vom putea sa ne hidratam peste noapte! Sacul meu de bivuac il taiem pe lungime si ne acoperim cu el. Cristina e la mijloc intre noi. Noaptea a trecut intr-un final: mai cu guri de ceai cald, mai cu frecat pe picioarele amortite de frig, mai cu privit la spectacolul oferit de stele. Mi-am amintit acolo intr-o doara de un fost coleg de la corporatia unde am lucrat 10 ani de zile. Se visa castigand la LOTO si apoi facand cadouri colegilor din departament. “X” va primi o casa cu doua nivele. “Y” va primi un apartament cu 4 camere. “Pobega” va primi o garsoniera. – Dar de ce doar o garsoniera, Costi?, intrebam eu. –Pt ca tu te multumesti cu putin. Esti tot timpul plecat pe munte si acolo dormi pe unde apuci cu cortul. Garsoniera e deja un lux pt tine! Mda, avea dreptate omul in felul lui … Eu, in acel moment, dormind in peretele legendar a lui Grandes Jorasses sub un cer plin de stele , chiar ma consideram cel mai bogat om din lume!
Next day we start the climb late, around 09:00. It’s my turn to put the climbing shoes and finish what I was left from the previous day.
A doua zi ne dezmortim destul de greu si parasim locul de bivuac pe la 09:00. Urc in expadrile in timp ce Cosmin si Cristina ma urmeaza in bocanci.
We get to the “Triangular Snowfield” where we switch again to crampons for another 2 pitches of ice. Ajungem la “Triunghiul de zapada” (névé triangulaire) unde ne punem coltarii pentru doua lungimi de gheata.
As we get to a mixed chimney, Cristina takes the lead and climbs all the way to the base of “Tour Rouse”. A steep pitch of traverse put us on the easy climbing ground again. From here the line is not obvious and the rock is loose, but Cristina is making good progress. So far all is good, the guide book says 2 more pitches of rock and then 2 more pitches of ice will take us to the summit.
But suddenly there is a loud screaming coming from Cristina. She had an accident! Her hand got under a loose rock as she tried to stop it from rolling toward us. Cosmin starts to climb towards her, manage to stop the blood and bandage the hand as good as he can. <<It will require some stitches once we get to the hospital !>> he said.
Cristina isi pune papucii de escalada pentru un horn friabil si niste lungimi de traverseu dreapta care ne scot langa bastionul surplombant a lui Tour Rousse. O lungime de traverseu expus ne pune din nou pe o trasa usoara. Din ghid reiese ca ar mai fi inca 3 lungimi de stanca si apoi inca 2 de gheata care ne vor scoate pe varf. Lungimile de stanca sunt usoare, dar terenul e friabil. Linia trebuie intuita, nu este foarte evidenta. La un moment dat, Cristina (care era cap de coarda) scoate un strigat puternic de durere. Un bolovan a pornit de sub piciorul ei si in incercarea de a-l opri, si-a accidentat mana. Cosmin urca repede la ea, ii opreste sangerarea si ii bandajeaza mana. Imi spune ca rana va avea nevoie de copcii odata ajunsa la spital. Situatia nu imi pare deloc roz.
I receive all these bad news at the belay ledge below them and I can’t help myself from thinking about different scenarios. Let’s say we manage to climb to the summit… but from there the descend it’s not easy and the time is late. Soon will be dark. How will Cristina manage to use the ice axe and then abseil with one hand? Will they call helicopter for rescue?!
Ma intreb in gand oare ce va urma si imi fac scenarii. Sa zicem ca reusim sa ajungem pe varf… Dar de acolo retragerea nu e deloc usoara si timpul e inaintat! Cum va putea Cristina sa foloseasca pioletul? Cum va face rapel? Vor chema elicopterul?!
Instead of an answer, I see Cosmin starting to lead the next pitch while pointing to some loose rock we should avoid when following. As I climb close to Cristina, I can see she is struggling with one hand but she is determined to keep the rhythm. Once we get to the belay station, she is asking Cosmin to help her put the crampons on for the next ice pitches that will come. I really admire her for her strength and determination to continue. No helli rescue needed for this brave “monkey”! I got all my answers now.
In loc de raspuns, il vad pe Cosmin ca deja a plecat mai departe cap de coarda. Imi striga pe unde sa o luam ca sa ocolim sectiunea friabila. Catar in spatele Cristinei si vad ca desi nu poate sa-si foloseasca decat o mana, e hotarata sa tina ritmul. Odata ajungi in regrupare, il roaga pe Cosmin sa o ajute sa isi puna coltarii pentru urmatoarele lungimi. I se citeste hotararea in priviri si eu inteleg totul. Elicopterului nu va zbura azi. Cel putin, nu pentru noi. Cristina e o fata puternica!
I start climbing the last 2 ice pitches. Finally we step over the cornice that puts us on the summit of Pointe Walker (4208m). Happy faces, hugs while making the summit picture using the phone, as I broke my camera LCD during the climb. The sun set as it’s already 19:30. There is no time to lose, here comes the descend!
Plec pe urmatoarele 2 lungimi de gheata. Iata in sfarsit si cornisa care ne scoate direct pe varful lui Pointe Walker (4208m). Ne felicitam si facem poza de varf in lumina apusului de soare cu telefonul, intrucat din neatentie am reusit sa sparg LCD-ul aparatul de fotografiat. E deja ora 19:30. Nu e timp de pierdut! Vedem urmele care coboara pe ghetar si dupa un mic detur hotaram sa stam concentrati si sa ne dam tot concursul ca sa ajungem jos safe.
The descend it’s like a puzzle: down climb a loose rock section, traverse a crevassed glacier, abseils on another ridge, traverse on the glacier again and then down climb another ridge. It’s dark already, but we take our time and stop many times to read the description in the guiding book and do our best to navigate without errors in the complex terrain. Coborarea e un puzzle: incepem traversarea pe o creasta friabila, ghetar plin de crevase, rapeluri pe alta creasta, din nou ghetar apoi din nou descatarare si rapeluri pe alta creasta. Lumina nu mai e demult. dar nu ne grabim. Citim descrierea in carte si navigam cu rabdare in terenul alpin complex.
At some point Cosmin is left without voice and he is using his hands to tell us we should stop for a brew. It’s been a while since we didn’t drink anything. At some point we finally reach Bocalatte hut (2804m). The guardian wakes up and warmly welcome us. We tell him we will continue to descend to Courmayeur as Cristina’s wound needs medical care. We buy a Coke and rest 30 minutes at the refuge before continuing the descend. Cosmin ramane fara voce. Ne intelegem prin semne sa facem o pauza si sa topim ceva zapada. Nu mai bausem nimic de ore bune si eram deshidratati. Continuam coborarea si ajungem cu bine la refugiul Bocalatte (2804m). Gardianul se trezeste si ne ureaza un calduros “Bine ati venit!”. Ii spunem ca vom continua sa coboram spre Courmayeur intrucat rana Cristinei trebuie curatata. Cumparam o bautura energizanta de la refugiu, ne odihnim 30 minute si apoi o luam din loc.
My headlamp is going only in the red light mode now and piss me off. Cosmin is offering his headlamp and I take it. From time to time we stop just to sleep for 5 minutes that turn out to be 10 minutes or maybe more. At dawn’s first light we arrive at the main road and keep going all the way to Courmayeur. Here we order a coffee in a bar and sleep in turns with the head on the table. Later, I go to buy tickets for the 09:00 bus only to find out it’s mandatory to show the passports. As some of us forgot to take the passport, I can’t buy the tickets. It’s all for one and all for all. What shell we do?Frontala mea se stinge. Cosmin imi ofera frontala lui si eu o primesc. Din loc in loc mai facem pauze de 10 minute de somn. Suntem rupti de oboseala. Odata cu zorii ajungem la sosea pe care o urmam pana in Courmayeur. E deja dimineata! Bem o cafea la un bar si motaim cu capul pe masa. Asteptam transferul cu autobuzul spre Chamonix, dar ne dam seama ca nu toti avem la noi actele de identitate, care acum sunt obligatorii la achizitionarea biletului.
Cosmin is calling his friend Christian to come and pick us up with his car. Thank you Christian! Then he take Cristina to Sallanches hospital. The doctor cleans the wound, put some stitches and let Cristina know she was lucky. She will be able to climb again in no more than 10 days. Cosmin il suna pe Christian si il roaga sa vina dupa noi cu masina. Multumim Christian! Apoi o duce pe Cristina in Sallanches la spital. Mana e dezinfectata si I se pun copcii. In 10 zile Cristina se poate catara din nou.
What more can I add to the story? It was a great experience to climb Walker Spur with this great couple, Cristina and Cosmin. Hope to climb some other nice routes in future with them! A fost o tura pe cinste cu niste oameni hotarati si frumosi cu care sper sa mai apuc sa catar si in viitor!
Equipment: 2 x 60 m half ropes, 8 cams (size 0-2), 5 nuts (small and medium), 2 ice-screws, 2 technical ice-axes (for the leader) and crampons.
On 12 Aug 2016 we took the 17:00 cable car up to intermediate station of the Aiguille du Midi and bivouacked 100 m further up.
03:45 – Start from bivouac
10:00 – Finish the rock part
12:30 – Finish the ice part
13:00 – Aig du Midi lift
We’ve climbed the rock part of the route only in mountain boots, the difficulties are not the grade of the climb on the rock part (5c) but more in route finding and the length. Pay attention also at the loose terrain, there are some big rocks that are moving!
Make sure you get to the upper part (snow ridge and ice) early in the day to climb it in good condition!
All in all, a fantastic N face route in a complex alpine terrain. Highly recommended!
Gear we used: one 50 m half rope, 8 quickdraws, friends BD C4 (#0.3-#1.0), few slings, 5 ice screws, crampons and 2 technical ice axes.
Topo Lion ridge/Cresta del Leone, Matterhorn/Cervin:
1st section: Abbruzi Hut – Col du Lion
2nd section: Col du Lion – Summit. (the Carrel refuge is marked with red dot)
More route descriptions: here, here and here. You can ask about the route conditions making a phone call at “House of the Guides” in Cervinia (details here).
Gear we used: one 50 m half rope, 6 quickdraws, friends BD C4 (#0.3-#1.0), few slings, crampons and one ice axe. ( We’ve changed to crampons just before “Pic Tyndall”, but there were people that didn’t use crampons at all. Make sure you ask about the conditions before the climb!!!). Take few large locking carabiners to clip into the fixed pro.
Taxi: for the lazy, there is a taxi service 4×4 from Cervinia to Abruzzi hut (800m+). More info, here. There is also a cable car, but then you have to make a long traverse to Abruzzi.
Water: there is some water running from the melting snow at about 3300 m altitude on the way to Carrel. I was not sure about it, so I carried water from Abruzzi hut toilet. There is some snow to melt (not so clean) around ref Carrel.
ref Carrel: is not guarded but you have to pay 15 eur to an Italian guide that is coming to collect money every evening in this period. 30+10 beds & blankets and a big stove with gas available (I was much happy to bring my own Jetboil and not to wait for the others. The refuge is overcrowded this time, 120 people on the night of 28 July in the refuge! Next day, I’ve seen many beds being reserved by guides for their clients (a paper with RESERVED stick to the bed). Don’t know how the system really works there, so make sure you make a phone call at the House of the Guides in Cervinia (details here) to see how you can make a reservation for ref Carrel! Or just bring your own bivy gear and sleep outside the refuge!
On 28 July at 05:30, we start driving from Chamonix to Cervinia where we get at around 07:30. There is a big free parking place close to the House of the Guides (and “Info Point”) where we leave the car.
We decide to walk all the way up from Cervinia (2000m) to Carrel (3835m) today and climb the Lion ridge next day. This is a long approach, + 1800m!!
I feel very lucky surrounded by 3 beautiful girls: Dia-from Romania, Dalit-from Israel and Ele- from Italy. Last year I did a promise to Dia that we will climb Lion ridge together this summer. So, here we are…
At 09:30 am we are already at Abruzzi Hut (2802m) where we enjoy the sun while drinking an italian coffee. An Austrian guide is telling us to hurry up if we want to have a bed at Carrel. At about 10:00 am we start the climb to ref Carrel.
Soon, we see a big group of climbers following us. They are moving fast, as they arrived by cable car and taxi. Ele is the fastest among us, so we agree she goes ahead to Carrel while I wait for Dia and Dalit to help them with the rope. Meanwhile, many teams overtake us.
At the “Prima Corda”, we have to wait for our turn to climb it. There are 4 teams in front of us. Is not easy to do it when you have a heavy backpack and there are other teams abseiling in the same time … a total mess. 🙂
We get at ref Carrel at around 15:00. Ele is already there (she climbed all the way without the rope!). She is greeting us saying she managed to keep the last 2 beds. So, we have to squeeze 4 people in 2 beds, but we are happy with that. The refuge is overcrowded.
During the evening there are still people arriving at the refuge, at some point there is no way you can walk without stepping on someone. People sleeping allover on the floor. The kitchen is also full. Around 120 people that night in ref Carrel!
As we discuss about what time shell we start climbing next day, I cannot help myself but thinking that there are small chances for me and Dia to summit next day if we get stuck behind people like I did today. What if I have to wait another hour tomorrow morning just to pass the “Corda della Sveglia? So, I decide to wake up at 01:00. All the others climbers are saying they will wake up at around 02:30 or 03:00. From my previous experience, I know many will not do as they say! The true was, the next day at around 12:40, half of the people were awake, trying to be the first that start the climb.
Me and Dia are leaving at 01:40. Dalit and Ele will come later, as they need more time to get ready. There are some teams climbing already, so I don’t bother too much about getting lost into the dark. At some point, a guide with a client is overtaking us. The client is asking me if we have spare batteries for his head torch. No, we don’t, but I am happy to share some light from my torch as we keep the same pace.
At some point, Dia is saying she is afraid we get to the summit too early and there is not enough light for her to take pictures. But there is still a lot of climb to be done, it’s about 05:00 when we get on top of Pic Tyndall (4241m). It is windy so we need to keep moving all the time in order not to get too cold. Soon we see a team that is descending and ask them if they climbed the summit. They said they had to turn back before the “Scala Giordano” as the wind was too strong. I have doubts we will make it, but we keep climbing. Because of the cold, Dia’s photo camera is not working. She is asking me to make pictures. After “Scala Giordano”, I find the section called “Passage Thioly ” to be very photogenic: the wind blown snow and covered the rocks in a beautiful way.
08:20, summit of Matterhorn! Dia is crying of joy. It is a big achievement for Dia and I am happy her dream came true. I’ve already climbed Matterhorn 2 times before, one was back in Sept 2009 when I’ve climbed Zmutt ridge and second time was in Oct 2014 when I’ve climbed it’s N face.
We slowly start the descend back to Carrel and as we abseil and see how many people are climbing up, I am happy that we decided to start early. We even have time now to make the photos we could not make on the way up.
17:00 we are back at ref Carrel. After we eat and drink, as we don’t want to spend another night in the overcrowded refuge, we decide to descend all the way down to Cervinia that day and drive back to Chamonix.
Date: 08 July 2016 Climbing partner: Ovidiu Mihail Topo:here
06 July 2016, I finish my work late but we manage to make the approach and arrive at Monzino hut at 21:30. Next day we climb up to Bivouac Eccles (3852m) where we spend the night for acclimatization, as my climbing partner comes from almost the see level.
08 Jully 2016, we start at 02:00 from the Bivouac Eccles and make good progress: 03:30 in Col Eccles, 06:00 at the start of Grand Couloir which is well known for the rock falling. Due to the freezing over the night, we managed to safely cross the Couloir before the sun rise. 10:30 on the summit of Mt Blanc (4808m) – a relax descend on the Gouter route down to Nid d’Aigle (2370m) – taking the 17:00 tram down for a well deserved shower and dinner in Chamonix.
After climbing Peuterey Integral back in 2010 (05-08 July) with Silvia Murgescu, I’ve always wanted to get back to the S side of Mt Blanc which I find so wild and with amazing views.
Here I am exactly 6 years later … climbing with another Romanian, Ovidiu Mihail. Ovidiu is very cautious, organized guy who likes to take things slowly. “No rush, no mistakes! Better late, than never!” Like a general in the army, he will consider each detail of the battle. Interesting to see how the attitude of your climbing partner influence your own behavior on the field in therms of “keeping the balance”.
So, here we are, negotiating:
Me: Let’s climb in one day from Val Veny parking to Eccles Bivouac!
Ovidiu: 2300 m+ in one day? No way, let’s do the approach in 2 different days, one day to Monzino, second day to Eccles. I am not acclimatized and we need the morning hours to climb up to Eccles, is too dangerous with this snow to do it in the afternoon.
Later on in the Eccles Bivouac …
Me: What time do you want to start the climb next day?
Ovidiu: 02:00! And after summiting Mt Blanc, we can sleep at Vallot refuge if we get there too late. I am in no rush, I am in vacation, let’s enjoy it, not race it.
Me (thinking): 02:00?! Too early! But Ok with that, in this way we will be in Chamonix in the evening for sure. I feel strong and fit. I want to race it! (Loudly): Ok with 02:00 start. I will lead and you will follow as quick as you can, you know I don’t have many clothes with me and I am skinny. You don’t want me to get cold, right?! 🙂
On the Innominata… 2 teams of guides overtaking us by climbing with short rope and moving together…
Me(getting mad): Let’s make the rope shorter and move together faster! It is easy terrain here… we are loosing time!
Ovidiu(calm): No, please put at least 2 protection between us. Did you hear about the 2 guides that died recently moving together with no protection between them? Well, here is the story…
Beside this silly game of “keeping the ballance”, some question marks raised in my head. Why do I fight against my partner will and pull the rope so hard? Why do I want to race the other teams and now feel bad because they overtook us? Is it because of the Chamonix style of climbing I did lately? Or is it because I lost something in the process of becoming “a more experienced climber” in the last years?
As the sun rise, I started to make pictures. In the background is Aig Noire de Peuterey, Aig Blanche … Ohhh, Peuterey Integral! I remember that 6 years ago I called that climb “my best life experience”. I walked that place like stepping into a Cathedral. I felt so week, so humble and prayed so much for God’s help during the climb, not sure we will make it to the end. Felt like David fighting Goliath…
What about now, where is that humble attitude? What changed me?! What have I become? I miss the real feelings I had before: the fear, the weakness, that strange sensation of Someone guiding all my steps, the magic taste of being in a remote place, fully alive enjoying the moment with all my senses… I just miss my Old me!
Climbing Brouillard ridge and exiting towards Mt Blanc de Courmayeur, a 50 km/h wind came to meet us. On the top of Mt Blanc we walked between a group. A girl was on her knees, crying of joy. She climbed the ordinary route up to Mt Blanc and there she was… full of emotions, so fully alive, so beautiful!
Good food for thinking: Getting more experience by doing hard climbs, steep skiing or long runs will train you to become a Goliath. But never forget that without feelings you are nothing but a robot. Don’t trade your soul. Stay David inside! Stay alive!
Sorry for the philosophical divagation, it was in my mind lately.
Thanks Ovidiu for such an amazing climb! Never change!
Gear we used: one 50 m half rope, steel crampons, one steel ice axe (you will be more happy with a pair), BD C4 (#0.3-#1.0), few slings, 5 long quickdraws.
Cu aproximativ 2 ani in urma, citeam fascinat cartea Paianjenul Alb, scrisa de H. Harrer, si recunosc ca m-am ingrozit atunci la propriu de tragediile petrecute in peretele nordic al Eigerului. “Mordwand”, era cunoscut pentru vremea rea, stanca friabila, asigurari proaste. Si totusi, prin ce putere magica a reusit el sa atraga atatea generatii ca un magnet? Jon Griffith scria despre Eiger “[…] in ziua de azi, atunci cand este in conditii, devine o arena de circ, cu zeci de echipe care formeaza cozi in regrupari. Cu toate astea, m-am simtit atat de bine sa urc cel mai faimos perete alpin din lume.” 2 years ago, I was both fascinated and terrified reading Harrer’s book, White Spider. “Mordwand” was well known for bad weather, bad rock and bad gear. Still, it attracts lots of climbers. Jon Griffith wrote on his blog “[…] nowadays it gets so many ascents when it’s in condition it can turn into a real circus of teams queuing on the face. But nevertheless it was awesome to top out of the worlds most famous alpine climb […]”.
Desi peretele nordic are in jur de 1800 m inaltime, ruta Heckmair aduna peste 2500 m din cauza traverseelor orizontale. Traseul e puzzle urias, finalizat de echipa celor 4 cataratori pionieri in iulie 1938. Un articol scurt si cuprinzator despre istoricul, dificultatea rutei si echipamentul necesar (din care ne-am inspirat si noi) gasiti aici. Heckmair route is like a huge puzzle with more 2500 m to climb (due to the long horizontal traverses) that was solved in July 1938 by the first 4 pioneers. A good article to read about it’s history/difficulty/gear requirement you may find here.
Topo pentru ruta Heckmair Eiger North Face:
Intre 14-15 Apr 2015, visul de a urca Fata Nordica a Eigerului a devenit realitate. As dori sa dedic acest articol partenerului meu, Alex Holt. Citind mai jos, sper ca veti intelege de ce. Sunt convins ca tot ceea ce ramane in urma unei catarari, sunt emotiile traite si prieteniile legate intre OAMENI. Restul, e doar praf in vant. Between 14-15 Apr 2015, this dream of climbing Eiger NF came true. I would like to dedicate this article to my partner Alex Holt. Hopefully, by reading the below story, you will realize why. The most important thing is not the climb itself, but the emotions and true friendship that remains. Everything else is just dust in the wind.
L-am cunoscut pe Alex in Dec 2014 ca unul din colegii mei, soferi, la o firma de transport din Chamonix. Pentru mine personal, termenul de “coleg” in ultimii 10 ani de lucrat intr-o institutie financiara din Romania a avut conotatia de: persoane dragi care din pacate nu imi impartasesc pasiunea pentru Munte si nici nu o inteleg. <<Cum adica, sa dormi in cort mai multe nopti la rand acum cand exista atatea pensiuni peste tot?! >>- ma intreba consternata o colega. I met Alex back in Dec 2014 as one of my driver colleagues in Chamonix. For me, in the last 10 years of working in a Financial Institution in Romania, “colleague” meant a person I worked with, that unfortunately does not understand or share my passion for Mountains. <<How can you stay in your tent while there are so many comfortable chalets around? >> asked me a former colleague.
Colegii mei din Chamonix sunt … alfel. Majoritatea britanici, absolventi de facultati de prestigiu si veniti acolo din pasiune pentru munte: alpinism, schi extrem, parapanta, etc. Cu patru din colegii mei am avut prima mea experienta de schi extrem in 08 Apr 2015 (Capucin Couloir) si m-am simtit cel mai incepator din grup. Mai am multe de invatat in materie de schi de la ei, si asta ma bucura! Mai jos un text gasit pe un soclu in statia de tren Kleine Scheidegg. My colleagues from Chamonix are … different. Young guys mostly from UK that graduated from University and now are spending time into the mountains doing their passions: climbing, extreme skiing, paragliding, etc. With 4 of my colleagues I’ve had my first steep ski (Capucin Couloir) and I felt like the most beginner in the group. I still have to learn a lot from them and I am happy about that. Bellow is a monument I found in Kleine Scheidegg.
Alex mi-a spus de la inceput ca isi cauta coechipier de catarat pentru sezonul de iarna, si eu i-am raspuns ca sunt foarte interesat. M-a intrebat ce rute am facut si ce obiective am. Tocmai catarasem Fata Nordica Matterhorn in octombrie si i-am zis ca imi doresc Eiger N Face cand va fi in conditii, probabil in primavara. Intre timp, eu si Alex am devenit prieteni, am facut mult schi de tura impreuna, printre altele am catarat Supercouloir in Tacul in Martie 2015 si o cascada de gheata de grad 6 in Italia. Alex told me he is looking for a climbing partner for winter season and I told him I am interested. He asked me what kind of climbs I did and what are my plans. I’ve just climbed Matterhorn N face in October and told him I would like to climb Eiger NF in spring. Meanwhile, we became friends, did lots of ski touring, climbed Supercouloir/Tacul in March and a 6th grade waterfall in Italy.
In 11 aprilie Alex mi-a trimis un mesaj: “Am o propunere de nerefuzat, Eiger NF e in conditii, am tinut minte ca ti-l doresti, vreau sa il urcam impreuna. Cred ca suntem pregatiti pentru asta!” Si din acel moment, aventura a inceput… On 11 April, Alex sent me a message: “I have a proposition you can’t refuse, Eiger NF is in condition, I remember you said you wanna climb it, let’s do it together, I think we are ready for that!” And from that moment, our adventure began…
Trei zile in total cu apropiere si retragere, doua zile de catarat efectiv in perete. Echipament minimal de bivuac, un Jetboil, o singura semicoarda de 60 m, 5 frienduri si 6 nuci, 8 expresuri si 4 cuie de gheata. Acelasi izopren taiat in 2 bucati pe care il imparteam cu Silvia pe Integrala Peuterey in 2010 (vezi aici) l-am impartit acum cu Alex in peretele Eiger-ului. Three days in total with approach/descend, two days of climbing. Minimal bivy gear, Jetboil, one 60m half rope, 5 cams and 6 wires, 8 quickdraws and 4 ice screws. The same yellow Thermarest cut in two pieces that I’ve used with Silvia on Peuterey Integral back in 2010 (see here) I have used now with Alex in Eiger NF.
In 13 apr seara, ma aflu la Eigergletscher in bivuac cu Alex, avand emotii pentru ziua urmatoare. Mi-a marturisit ca isi doreste mult ca in vara sa prinda un job in Top Management la o companie foarte importanta din UK, ca acolo au aplicat mii de candidati si ca el ajunsese printre alti 50, in finala. Ca urmare, va trebui sa trimita o filmare de 2 min despre el, despre motivatia si pasiunile lui si apoi sa astepte sa fie chemat la interviul final. S-a hotarat ca filmarea sa o faca chiar pe varful Eiger, dupa ce vom catara Fata Nordica. Iata-l deci pe Alex repetandu-si speech-ul cu voce tare si intrebandu-ma cum mi se pare si ce ar trebui schimbat la el. The evening of 13 Apr finds us in the Eigergletscher bivouac, thinking about tomorrow’s climb. Alex told me about his desire to get an important job in UK, where thousand applied and he got among the other 50 candidates for the final interview. He has to film himself while speaking about him, about his motivation&passions. Here is Alex, reading his speech loud and asking me if anything should be changed to make it better.
Avem parte de un spectacol deosebit, totul in lumina blanda a soarelui la apus. De la stanga la dreapta: Eiger flancul Vestic (traseul nostru de coborare), Mönch si Jungfrau. Coborarea pe flancul Vestic imi este deja cunoscuta, intrucat urcasem creasta Mittelegi in Sept 2009. A great view is in front of us. From left to righ: Eiger W Flank (our descend route), Mönch and Jungfrau. I already know the descend on the W Flank, as I did Mittelegi ridge on Sept 2009.
14 aprilie, ora 4:30 am pornim la lumina frontalelor in traversare orizontala spre startul rutei. Sunt urme evidente in zapada si asta ne mareste confortul si viteza. Asa cum am stabilit cu Alex, ne vom asigura in coarda doar cand ajungem la “Difficult Crack”. Zis si facut. Cu atentie si incurajari reciproce ajungem chiar la primele raze de lumina la “Fisura Dificila” unde ne legam in coarda. Intrucat am echipamentul deja pe mine, plec primul. Catararea acestei fisuri este asa cum ii spune si numele, dificila. 20 m de teren vertical friabil in care te misti ca o pisica avand sentimentul ca totul se farama sub coltari. 14 Apr, 4:30 am – with our head torches on, we begin the long horizontal traverse towards the start of the climb. We simul-climbe without the rope until the “Difficult Crack”, which is a 20 m steep and loose ground where I had to walk like a cat, otherwise it felt like I would soon destroy everything under my crampons.
Alex sub “Rote Fluh”. Suntem minusculi in comparatie cu acest perete grandios. Alex under “Rote Fluh”. We feel like little bugs in this huge wall.
Putin inainte de “Traverseul Hinterstoisser” (de vazut filmul The Beckoning Silence despre drama lui Toni Kurz si a companionilor lui) ne ajunge din urma Michi Wohlleben impreuna cu Julien Irilli care urmau ca in aceea zi sa incerce sa stabileasca un record de viteza in echipa. Au reusit sa catere ruta in 05h05min ! Michi este partenerul de catarat a lui Ueli Steck, este ghid de la varsta de 21 ani (acum are 24) si a mai urcat Fata Nordica Eiger de 5 ori pana acum. Ne imprietenisem cu el cu o seara inainte, in bivuacul de le Eigergletscher cand l-am intrebat ce asigurari mobile va lua cu el pe traseu. Fastacit, ne-a spus sa nu il luam ca etalon, ca el va lua doar 2 frenduri si 2 nuci. Iata-l pe Michi depasindu-ne repede pe acest pasaj. Din neatentie, dupa ce a dezasigurat coarda, partenerul lui a uitat sa recupereze si friendul plasat de Michi in fisura. Dusi au fost. Am recuperat frendul si i l-am aratat lui Alex, care a avut o remarca de milioane: “Acum ca au pierdut jumatate din echipament, vor asigura mai putin si vor termina ruta mult mai repede decat si-au propus!” 🙂 Right before “Hinterstoisser Traverse” (see The Beckoning Silence movie), Michi Wohlleben and Julien Irilli catches us from behind. They are trying to break a team speed record. They will climb it in 5h05min! Michi is Ueli Steck’s climbing partner, guiding from 21 years old (now he is 24). We knew each other from the previous day, at Eigergletscher bivouac, where we’ve asked him what kind of gear he takes with him for the climb beside the ice screws. He said: “I will take 2 cams and 2 wires. But, don’t take me as an example to follow. I’ve been climbing Eiger NF 5 times already!” So, the speed team overtake us leaving behind their cam into the crack. When I took it out, they were already far away. I showed him to Alex and he had a fabulous remark: “Now that half of their gear is gone, they won’t place too much protection, meaning they will climb the route even faster!” 🙂
Alex catarand “Ice Hose”, un pasaj vertical si foarte interesant ce leaga primul camp de gheata de al doilea. Alex climbing the “Ice Hose”, a vertical and very interesting pitch that links the first and the second icefield.
Dupa “Bivuacul Mortii”, care nu ne inspira deloc ca si loc de bivuac, traversam al treilea camp de gheata si ne indreptam spre vestita “Rampa”. Lunga de 150 m, ea ne conduce diagonal stanga spre “cruxul” din aceea zi: “Ice Chimney” si “Ice Bulge”, doua lungimi pe care le impartim frateste. After the “Death Bivouac”, we traverse the 3rd icefield and climb toward “The Ramp”, a 150m long climb that takes us diagonally left to the crux of that day, “Ice Chimney” and “Ice Bulge”.
Eu iau “Hornul” in timp ce lui Alex ii revine “Umflatura”. Teoretic, ambele din gheata … practic insa gheata lipsea in mare masura pe Horn, asfel pasajul devenind unul delicat de dry-tooling, mai ales cu rucsaci grei in spinare. Am trecut pasajul si odata ajuns in regrupare m-am descarcat de tensiunea acumulata si am chiuit de bucurie! Alex mi-a zis ca a fost cea mai curajoasa catarare cap de coarda care i-a fost dat sa o vada. Am stiut ca exagereaza, dar i-am zambit si i-am fost recunoscator pentru complimentul spus in acel moment. I lead the “Chimney” and Alex will lead the “Bulge”. In theory, they should have ice, but now the Chimney will be climbed in dry tooling style, which is quite delicate to do with heavy backpacks. After leading the Chimney, Alex told me it was the boldest lead climbing he has ever seen. I took it as a compliment, though I knew he was just nice to me and exaggerated a little bit.
Gata, am urcat deja 2/3 din perete si ne aflam in locul de bivuac, “Brittle Ledges”. Aici ne vom petrece noaptea de 14 spre 15 aprilie. Facem balustrada cu semicoarda si legati in ham, topim zapada si ne hidratam, gatim, mancam si ne pregatim sa vedem apusul din sacii de dormit. Sub noi, schiorii care toata ziua au animat partiile de sub Eiger, acum au amutit. Odata cu venirea noptii, se asterne linistea si noi ne cuibarim in culcusul improvizat, cu gandul la ziua de maine. Din cauza ca nu am avut semnal in perete, telefoanele ramase deschise sunt acum fara baterie. Si desi ne doream sa asiguram persoanele dragi ca suntem bine prin voce, o facem doar telepatic. Well done, we have climbed 2/3 of the wall already and now we find ourselves at the “Brittle Ledges”, where we will spend the night. We make a balustrade with the rope, boiling water to drink, cooking, eating and then watching the sunset in our sleeping bags. The skiers that animated the pistes under Eiger are now gone and the silence is all over. The batteries from our phones are drained from network searching, as we left them open while climbing. Though we wish to inform our dearest ones about our progress with the voice, we have to do it only through telepathy.
La ora 4:00 suntem treziti de zgomot de pioleti si coltari. O recunosc pe celebra Ines Papert si conversam putin. Ea si partenerul ei au plecat la ora 22:00 pentru a catara noaptea, sperand sa prinda ruta mai inghetata decat in timpul zilei. Ines nu are rucsac, iar partenerul ei are unul foarte mic. Au continuat catararea in ritm alert, estimez ca au prins rasaritul pe varf. At 4:00 am we hear some noise around us. We recognize Ines Papert and had a small talk with her. They started at 22:00 aiming to climb the route in the dark, with better ice conditions. I assumed they got on the summit at the sunrise.
Nici eu si nici Alex nu suntem oameni foarte matinali, si cum a doua zi dimineata se intampla ca sa mai apara o echipa, ii lasam sa ne depaseasca. Asfel startul il luam la ora 10:00. Alex serveste la micul dejun renumita “Brittle Crack” (Fisura Fragila?!), si imi tot striga ca i-au inghetat mainile pe stanca si ca simte crampe in muschi. “Ei, asa e pana te incalzesti putin, o sa fie bine, azi e ziua varfului!” ii raspund ca incurajare, constient fiind ca si eu voi trece foarte curand prin aceleasi chinuri. Next morning, we started to climb quite late, at 10:00. For the breakfast, Alex leads “The Brittle Crack”. He is telling me his arms are cold and that he feels pain in his muscles. “It will be fine once you warm up a little bit, today is the summit day!” I shouted back to him as an encouragement, realizing that it will be the same for me.
Urmez eu in “Traversarea zeilor”, o traversare orizontala si putin descendenta de 150 m unde ne minunam amandoi de expunerea pasajului si un sentiment de adanca admiratie ne incearca la gandul celor care au trecut prima oara pe aici. Oauuu, jos palaria! It’s my turn in the “Traverse of the Gods”, an horizontal 150m traverse with huge exposure. How can you not admire the courage of the first people who walked here?!
Suntem deja in “Paianjenul Alb”, si il vad pe Alex cum ia viteza. Mergem concomitent. Mai bine spus, alergam la deal. Aici suntem sub un foc continuu de pietre in cadere care suiera pe langa noi ca niste gloante atunci cand nu isi ating tinta, bagandu-ne in sperieti. Cand si-o ating, fiecare isi scutura membrul lovit si imediat continua catararea intr-un ritm din ce in ce mai alert. Fiecare vorbeste pe limba lui si se roaga in gand. Oare de ce am fost lenesi si am plecat asa de tarziu din bivuac, de ce nu ne-am gandit ca soarele va incalzi partea superioara si vor pica multe pietre in acest loc?! Iar cei 150 m de verticala par o vesnicie! Soon we find ourselves into the “White Spider”, and I see Alex gaining speed. He has a good reason: rock falling. I wished we would have left the bivouac spot earlier as the sun is hitting the uppers slopes now sending down a lots of rocks, like bullets. I think each one of us was praying in his own language while we simul climb these 150m.
In sfarsit, iata-ne in siguranta urcand o alta rampa de gheata. “Fisura de Quartz” imi revine mie. Il aduc si pe Alex sus si apoi il pozez in celebrul “Bivuac Corti”. Finally we are safe climbing another ramp. It’s my turn to lead the “Quartz Crack” then I photograph Alex at the “Corti Bivouac”.
Alex pleaca mai departe si catara “Hornurile de Iesire” care au gheata si sunt in conditii foarte bune. Alex leads the “Exit Chimneys” that are in good conditions right now.
Ma aduce la el si dintr-o data simt ca am depasit tot ce era mai greu din traseu si simt ochii plini de lacrimi. Probabil asta e efectul iesirii bruste in soare dupa mult timp petrecut catarand in umbra. Dau sa imi imbratisez partenereul, dar el mi-o taie scurt: “Mai avem 200 m pana pe creasta somitala, fii bun si da-i bice!” As I climb above above the Exit Chimneys and I feel we made it, my eyes get wet. Maybe it was because I suddenly I got into the sun, after a long period of climbing into the shadow of the N wall. I wanted to hug Alex, but he cut it short: “We still have 200 m on the final slopes to get to the summit, let’s keep going!”
La 14:30 suntem pe varf si ne imbratisam. Alex isi tine speech-ul filmandu-se. Are emotii, se incurca si trage mai multe duble. Ii tin pumnii si ma bucur cand il aud ca e multumit de ce a iesit. Savuram peisajul din jur si nu ne grabim. Am ajuns cu greu aici, de ce sa plecam atat de repede? At 14:30 we hug on the top of Eiger. Alex is filming while heaving his speech. He is a little bit nervous and needs to do it again several times till he is finally satisfied. I am so proud and glad for him. We breath and watch the beauty around us. If it was so hard to get here, why to go away in a rush?
Intr-un final incepem coborarea pe flancul vestic pe panta de zapada in plin soare. Am in curand probleme cu coltarii mei, care fiind fara anti-snowuri, aduna zapada in forma de toc sub talpa. Trebuie sa lovesc coltarii cu pioletul la fiecare pas pentru a o indeparta. Alex o ia inainte, il vad cum devine tot mai mic. La un moment dat ma ajunge din urma o alta echipa cu care cobor o buna bucata de drum. Mai ma las sa alunec si pe fund si cand iau viteza franez in piolet. Asfel mai castig ceva timp. Simt insa oboseala si deshidratare. Soarele arde cu putere. Finally we start descending and I have problems with the snow getting under my crampons as I don’t have an anti-balling system. I see Alex getting smaller and smaller in the distance. At some point, another team catch up with me and we descend together. I try to slide on my back and stop with the ice axe. The sun is burning all around. I feel tired and dehydrated.
Ajung in statia de tren Eigergletscher si nu gasesc pe nimeni. Ma uit la orarul trenului si vad ultimul tren a plecat la ora 18:10, cu exact jumatate de ora inainte de sosirea mea. Dintr-o data realizez ca eu a doua zi trebuie sa lucrez si ca era foarte important sa prindem acel ultim tren spre Grindelwald pentru a ajunge in aceeasi seara in Chamonix. Oare Alex a prins ultimul tren? Motive ar avea suficiente: are de trimis materialul video a doua zi, si e foarte important acel job pt el. Un sentiment de deznadejde ma loveste ca un ciocan in moalele capului. Ma surprind vorbing cu voce tare cu unul din baietii din cealalta echipa: “Offff! Partenerul meu a plecat cu ultimul tren! Cred ca am ramas singur aici…” Si simt cum panze de paianjeni imi intra in ochi. As I get into the Eigergletscher trains station, I see nobody is there. The last train left half on hour ago. Suddenly I realize tomorrow I need to go to work and that I really need to get down to Grindelwald and than to Chamonix. What about Alex? Did he get into the last train? Well, he had good reason to do it as he needs to send the video next day, and to get that job is very important to him. A deep feeling of disappointment strikes like a hammer in my head. I hear myself talking loud to the guy from the other team: “ohhh! My partner just left with the last train. I am all alone here…” And I fell like spider canvas getting into my eyes.
“Hei omule, sunt aici!” imi striga Alex iesind din cladirea statiei de tren. O privire i-a fost suficienta ca sa isi dea seama prin ce trec si care imi sunt temerile. “Si acum, ce facem?” ma intreaba Alex zambitor. “Alex, trebuie sa fiu maine la servici, esti ok sa coboram pe picioare in Grindelwald?”. A incuvintat planul meu: sa coboram pe marginea partiei de schi si apoi sa urmam linia de tren pana in Grindelwald. Zis si facut. La ora 21:00 eram in parcare la masina, cu basici la picioare de atata mers (1300 m diferenta nivel coborata), dar fericiti. Putin dupa miezul noptii, intram in Chamonix. “Man, I am here!” shouted Alex while getting out from the building. With a glance, he could realized my fear. “And now, what?” he continued with a smile on his face. “Alex, I need to go to work tomorrow, are you ok to follow the ski slopes and then the train track down to Grindelwald?”. “Yes, let’s do it!” At 21:00, we got to the car parking with feet blisters after descending 1300 m, but happy. Soon after midnight, we arrived in Chamonix.
Foarte curand dupa asta, Alex a zburat inapoi in UK, intrucat sezonul de iarna s-a terminat. Au ramas in urma amintiri frumoase, si fotografia de mai jos e una din ele. Soon after,as the winter season ended,Alex got back to UK. Good memories are still fresh, and this picture is one of them.
ps: Duminica, 3 mai 2015 aflandu-ma in orasul natal Timisoara, Romania, primesc un mesaj de la Alex: “Omule, nu pot sa cred! Mi-au oferit jobul!”. Ei bine, mult succes prietene si … Multumesc! Sunday, 3 May 2015, while finding myself back in Romania, I have received a message from Alex: “Man, I can’t believe it! I got the job!” Well … Godspeed my Friend and … Thank You!
Topo for Schmid route, Matterhorn N face: click here, here and here.
After finding out the route was in excellent condition, the idea of climbing it was discussed at Chamonix’s swimming pool. As we were 4 people, we decided to climb in two teams: Mihnea Radulescu & Pascal/Sorin Nichiforiuc & myself.
So the next day, 1st October 2014, 3 Romanians and one French are happily walking down the streets of Zermatt gazing at the beautiful Mont Cervin.
Logistic: cable car from Zermatt to Schwartzsee Paradise station (2583m), than a hike to refuge Hornli (3260 m) – which at the moment is closed for maintenance.
Our bivy spot at the base of Matterhorn had a nice panoramic view towards SE, with Monterosa, Klein Matterhorn and the ski slopes that were opened at this time of year. There were footprints marking the start of our route and the traverse on the glacier, so we tried to memorize the line, to make it easier for the night start.
We left our bivy at 3.30 am. The climb was nice, not hard in particular, but long. A lots of traversing make it quite easy to get lost, so you have to pay attention all the time. The last 200 m to exit in Zmutt ridge are easy but difficult to protect.
At 7:00 pm we were exiting in Zmutt ridge and then summited Matterhorn (4478m) at 7:43 pm. The descent via Hörnli ridge took us longer than we expected, we got to Solvay hut at 1 am and finally got a good sleep.
Below you will find some photos from our climb. I am grateful that I could share this experience with Mihnea, Pascal and finally, special thanks goes to Sorin Nichiforiuc, who trusted & allowed me to be his partner for this commitment climb. It meant a lot to me.
Equipment: 2 half ropes (50 m), 9 ice screws (short ones are very useful), 1 set of cams (size 00 – 1).
*Topo for Cassin route in Piz Badile, you can find here.
The NE face of Piz Badile is considered one of the six great north faces of the Alps. The clasic “Cassin route” was first climbed in July 1937 by Riccardo Cassin, V. Ratti and G.Esposito who joined forces with the Como team (M. Molteni and G. Valsecchi, who both died, first on the summit and the second just before reaching the hut).
We’ve climbed it on 23 July 2012 (Silvia Murgescu and Catalin Pobega – Romanian mixed team) and descended next day by rappeling via Norkdante. During the night, we slept in the small yellow refuge situated on top of Piz Badile.
A short film with our climb on Cassin (click on HD for a better quality):
We’ve plan to spend a “one-week” vacation in the Alps, this time not in the Chamonix area, but far more East, in the Bregaglia range. Our destination was Promontogno -close to San Moritz. The trip started: Romania-Milano (by airplane), then Milano-Lecco-Colico-Chiavenna (by train), and finally Ciavenna-Promontogno (by bus). From there, we hiked up with heavy backpacks for couples of hours.
The journey took us all day, but in the evening we could pitch our tent 40 min passed Sasc Fura Hut. We found a nice spot for bivouac with green grass and water. Towards South, we had a nice view upon the NE face of Piz Badile. Cassin route being our target for the next day.
23 July 2012, we woke up at 5 am and started to approach Cassin. It was quite late, as the other teams (that spent the night in the hut) were already in front of us.
The ledge where Cassin route starts was dry, only a block of ice that you could easily avoid. Our trail running shoes were perfect, no mountain boots needed.
At 7.15 am, Silvia starts leading the first pitch of Cassin, the Rebuffat Deidre. The 2nd pitch starts the left traverse and here is where we passed over Regis and his partner (French team). Along the route, the French team climbed with quite the same speed, so we could dialog and become friends.
It was my turn to lead now. I’ve belayed at some pitons with slings. It was an intermediate belay station, the only one without bolts in the entire route. (See the topo!)
From this point if you continue up and left in the traverse, you find yourself out of the route. And this is what 2 Italian teams in front of us did. After debating with the French team and Karlis (a guy from Latvia who was climbing rope solo) we decided to go back 6-10 m (right) and then straight up. An abandoned rope could be seen at that point. The direction was good and Silvia (that was leading) found the next belay station on bolts. The picture was done from the intermediate belay station (pitons) showing the good direction of the route.
Two simul-climbing pitches will get us into the “Cengia Mediana”, a wide ledge that cross the NE face of Piz Badile horizontally. Silvia (green spot) and Italians (yellow spots).
The upper yellow spot shows the Italians have climbed again too high and got out of the route. Don’t climb up into the roof, but start the right traverse when you are at 1/2 distance below the roof. See the topo!
Me and Silvia waiting for the other teams to move on (photo by Regis). Karlis (the guy with the eyeglasses) has also joined us at the belay station.
Me leading the 5c+ pitch (photo by Karlis). The climb follows the dihedral for 25 m, then traverse right (see my upper explanation). There are some pegs in place, but you also have to place your own protection (cams and nuts).
Silvia exiting the 5c+ pitch. You can feel the route exposure when you look back. 🙂
The second 5c+ pitch is mine. Another dhiedral to climb and then you need to turn left around a roof where you will find a sling to grab (just in case you cannot free it).
Climbing the chimney was Silvia’s delight. She did it in an excellent manner, not by squeezing inside the chimney, but by spreading legs she could climb it outside.
Silvia climbing with style. 😛 Photo by Regis (Thank you!)
3 more pitches and we finish climbing the Cassin route by exiting into the North Ridge.
Siliva was so happy to see the sun on North Ridge, as we got quite cold into the last pitches of N face. It was 6.30 pm.
From there we simul-climbed up to Piz Badile summit where we get at 7.45 pm.
We spent the night sleeping into the small yellow refuge (situated next to Piz Badile summit). It was me, Silvia and Karlis, who got into the refuge exactly at the dark.
The next morning, we left the refuge at 6.00 am and start descending via North Ridge. We got down to our tent after 6 hours with no incident. The equipment we used:
-two 50m half-ropes (rappeling down the Norkante we did 25 m rappels, but also downclimbed in some points), a set of cams + a set of nuts, 12 quickdraws
-a bivy sack each (250g). Fortunately, we didn’t have to use it!
-a down light jacket each (350g)
-a light rucksack each(Osprey Talon 33l) that included a 2.0 litre camelbak
-trail running shoes for the approach (We had the information from Sasc Fura Hut about the conditions. If you plan to descend via South, to Gianeti hut, you will need the mountain boots.
Important – The rappels via Nordkante takes at least 5-6 hours during daylight and it’s quite impossible to spot the rappel anchors during the night if you are there for the first time. So, plan your descend wise!
Between 8-9 Sept 2009, together with Silvia Murgescu we have climbed Matterhorn North-West ridge, aka “Zmutt”, starting from Schonbiel hut. For descend, we’ve rappelled down the Hornli ridge.
Our climb up to Matterhorn summit (4478m) via Zmutt took us 24 hours, as we encountered difficulties in finding the proper route in the lower part (between Zmutt glacier and the actual ridge). So, I strongly recommend to start climbing Zmutt from Hornli hut and not from Schonbiel hut! It requires a long traverse on ice to get into the ridge, but it saves a lot of time in terms of route finding.
Zmutt was our desired climb for the summer of 2009. As we had a 2 weeks vacation, our plan was to start by climbing Eiger via Mitelegi ridge, then climb Mont Blanc via 3 Monts (to get acclimatized) and then… the most wanted Zmutt. And that’s what we did.
On 7 Sept 2009, we left our tent in Zermatt camping and started the approach to Schonbiel hut (2694m). This was a 4 hours easy trekking route. We took food and gas with us, as we were at the end of vacation and didn’t have too much money to spend in a Swiss hut.
We asked the lady warden from Schonbiel hut about the route condition and we found that 3 weeks ago it was climbed by another team starting from Schonbiel.
The rest of the day we kept hydrating and sleeping preparing for the next day climb: 1940m to the top of Matterhorn and then descend via Hornli ridge and come back to the hut to recover our big backpacks.
Topo for Zmutt ridge you can see below. The line in red is what you have to climb if you start from Schonbiel to get into the ridge. See also the descriptions:
In the morning of 8 Sept 2009 we left Schonbiel hut at 2 am, descended right on the clear path to Zmutt Glacier. Here we had some problems in finding our way up trough dozens of crevasses at the light of our torches. Topo says we had to follow the watercourse in the left and access the ridge from that point. But as we tried to find a better place where to pass the bergschrund, we found ourselves a little bit too high from the watercourse. Anyway, we’ve decided to climb the wall diagonally left to get into the watercourse. The climb was horrible, with all the rock disintegrating around us. We’ve switched to climbing shoes and climbed a chimney trying to put some protections for the moral. It was dangerous and it took us a lot of time.
We’ve got up into the ridge only at noon. 10 hours from the hut to this point… it was clear to us we will not make it in time to the top and down in the same day.
We followed the ridge by climbing around and upon a series of teeth with one rappel necessary. We found some pegs here and one rope that was abandoned.
The surrounding was excellent. We could admire Dent Blanche in the background and the Lion ridge on our right.
Here we are at the Carrel Gallery (by which Carrel traversed from the Italian ridge). From this point, the batteries from our little camera went off. As I left my DSLR at the Schonbiel hut, from here on, we don’t have any more pictures.
The loose rocks up in the Carrel Gallery made us switch again to climbing shoes. We’ve reached Matterhorn summit at 2.00 am, after 24 hours of effort. We’ve put all our close on and starting the descend via Hornli ridge. At some point we sow many torches coming up the Hornli and we thought maybe the rescue team think we need help and come for us. (The batteries from Silvia’s torch were exhausted and the torch was starting to give light clipping signals – we considered this was the reason that made them coming).
We felt guilty and didn’t know how to make them stop. At some point, we realized they are not rescue teams, but climbing parties up the Hornli ridge. They were all like running a marathon, climbing very fast. The first team didn’t have time even to respond to our <Hello!>. Why are they so desperate? Himmm…
When we got to Solvey refuge (8:30 am), we stopped to warm in the sun. A mountain guide gave me something to drink as my lips were dry. Silvia decided to descend faster and get quicker to Hornli hut for some drinking water. At 11 a clock we took a nap in the front of Hornli hut. At 16.00 we leave to Schonbiel hut, where we get in another 4 hours.
The warden from Schonbiel asked us about our health, as she watched us up on Zmutt trough the binocular in the previous day.
After climbing Ginat, we still had some time for a one-day route. So, on 31 March 2012 we’ve aimed for “Le Fil à Plomb” in Rognon du Plan, see the topo here. It’s a 700 m ice route, in the Aig du Midi N Face.
We took the first cabin from Chamonix (7.30 am) up to the intermediate station- Plan de l’Aiguille (2340 m), passed the bergschrund at 8.50 am, climbed the route and exit in the notch by Rognon du Plan (3601 m) at 11.50 am.
The main reason for climbing fast (3 hours) was: We were worried about loosing the last cabin descend to Chamonix, as the next day we had an airplane back to Romania.
It was Saturday, and the route was very busy: 8 or 10 teams maybe. It felt like running a marathon, simul climbing all the way up except the crux (40 m ice at 85°-90°). See the film below:
Fil à Plomb Topo, the line of the route is in red (this photo is not my property):
In front of us many teams approaching Fil a Plomb:
Silvia on the left. From this point we rope up.
Passing the bergschrund…
Passing over 2 teams.
From this point, we could see the crux in front of us. 2 teams are already there.
Me starting to climb the crux. Not to bad at all, the route is heavily frequented, you only have to hook with your ice axes.
Looking down the crux pitch: ropes all over the place.
Exiting the ice fall…
That’s our destination… Aig du Midi.
Reaching another 2 teams from behind… up there we can see the exit.
The final push up on easy ground.
2 italian teams in the notch.
There is Silvia coming.
Me getting some sun. Photo by Silvia.
Silvia enjoying the view…
Rognon du Plan in the background.
A lot of people at Aig du Midi.
Enough with the rush. Now we have time to make picture and admire the view.
Silvia in this wonderful land.
Skiers on their way to Vallee Blanche.
Last steps to Aig du Midi. Beautiful places left behind…we feel a little bit sad for leaving.
In the last week of March 2012, I was in the Alps with Silvia. Our main objective was Ginat in Les Droites. Topo for Ginat and more info about this superb route (approach, descent, slope inclination, difficulty, length) you can find here.
Enjoy the film we did during our climb on Ginat (click on HD and watch it on Vimeo for better resolution):
Our climb story: This route was on my mind since last year. I received precious information from Mihai Sima and Sorin Nichiforiuc (romanian team) after they climbed it back in March 2011. Thank you!
I’ve also found valuable information about the route conditions by reading the “Route Notebook” at www.ohm-chamonix.com and www.camptocamp.org
We arrived in Chamonix Saturday night (24 March 2012) and phoned to make a reservation at ref Argentiere (the start for Ginat). But everything was booked till Tuesday. Reason? Piolet d’Or Festival and ski season. So, we decided to see how are the conditions in “Linceul” in Grandes Jorasses N face (link). We slept one night at Leschaux refuge, but as the altitude is only 2431 m there, we didn’t make our acclimatization for Ginat (4000 m).
Tuesday (27 March) we stepped for the first time on Grands Montet summit (3233 m) surrounded by many skiers. First time for us in this area, and we enjoyed the view.
Going down from here, you cross Rognon glacier to Argentière glacier and on the right you can see Les Droites. Here is the spot where we’ve tried to observe and read our route, especially the start of it, as we had to climb it next day in the dark.
Silvia is studying the line from Argeniere refuge. Ginat route drawn in red color.
We found we are 4 teams targeting Ginat next day. One team was from UK, Wilki and Finn. Another team was from Switzerland, the guide’s name was Dani Arnold (holds the new record for speed climbing Eiger N face, as Finn told us.) He is a nice guy and very humble. He gave us more details about the route and answer to all my questions. He also told us how important is to take light skis with you in winter climbing if you want to be fast for approach and descend in the Alps. (Although we don’t go very often in the Alps, it seems we have a special luck in finding these Top guys. See here how we met Dean Potter on Eiger. At that time we didn’t know who was that guy base jumping.)
Next day, we woke up at 2 am and left the refuge at around 2:30 am. Dani Arnold with his partner were on their skis in front going very fast and we tried to keep up with the UK team. They were on rackets. We were by foot, so we had to make effort to keep up with them. At around 4:00 we got on the base of the route and Silvia was very keen to start climbing it.
After the first pitch, one team decided to retreat (it was a french guide with a girl I assume). The swiss team was way in the front. Next to us we had Wilki and Finn from UK. They have climbed with the same speed and belayed at the same spots where we belayed. It was nice to dialogue and share the same enthusiasm with them. When it was my turn I had a small mixed pitch (easy) followed by tough ice (15-20 m) which I didn’t like. After that, we made a left traverse and found good ice all the way up trough the big ice slope situated in the middle of the wall. On this section we simul-climbed.
Below is a picture with us in the route (green spots). Sorin Nichiforiuc did this photo from refuge Argentiere, where he was at that moment. Thanks!
As we climbed higher and we were not acclimatized, soon we began to feel the effort. The route is long (1000m) and we felt our calves burning. Not difficult, but long.
Finn and Wilki did some great photos. Below is an examples that shows Silvia climbing and the exposure of the route.
Once the big ice field was climbed, I’ve faced a mixed pitch (80°) traversing right.
Wilki and Finn climbing the mixed pitch.
It was getting late, but we were very excited about the view we had towards Argentiere Glacier. At some point (about sunset), it was breathtaking.
Another maybe 2 pitches and the slope got steep again.
As the light goes down, we shot the last pictures.
Silvia exiting in the notch (Breche) of Les Droites. It was midnight already.
Finn and Wilki decided to have a brew stop and to take a nap on the ledge there (they had their bivy bags). They planned to start to rappel on the Southern side in the morning. We also had a brew stop, I love my Jetboil! Hot tea and some warm tomato soup. It was cold and our Emergency blanket didn’t work as it was also windy. So, we started rappeling on the Southern side (towards Couvercle hut) at 3:30 am and by the time we got down on the glacier it was morning already and we could see the path very clearly.
A feeling of “Déjà Vu” came to me when I saw Grandes Jorasses N face early in the morning.
Up there in the notch is where we’ve been last night.
Though we were tired, we didn’t stop at Couvercle refuge. We’ve spend some time to warm in the sun and than went down to Mer du Glace glacier. I love this picture that Silvia did.
The train from Montenvers took us directly in Chamonix where Silvia had a big ice cream, as she realy deserved it. Yes, “ice” again. 😛
Things to know about the route:
Although it’s refer as an entirely ice route in the guide book, in the last years this is not real anymore. There are 2 mixed pitches in the route, not dificult (made our climb more interesting and fun). The first one is right after passing the bergschrund followed by a 15 m of horrible black ice. You will be climbing this in the dark! The last mixed pitch (30 m maybe) is after the big ice slope, when making the traverse to the right (in our film, minute 5:48). We found a peg (piton) there. We used some nuts for protection also.
Our equipment: 2 half ropes Beal Iceline, 50 m (this length is ok for the descend by rappelling on the Southern side too), 8 ice screws, 10 quickdraws, a set of nuts (we use medium and big size mostly), 4 cams (used maybe 2, small size), 2 long slings for belay. We had our Jetboil (stove) with us and 1.5 l water for each during the climb. Bear in mind the face is 1000 m high.
Together with Silvia Murgescu, we climbed Grand Capucin on Swiss Direct route on 11 July 2011. A short film with our climb below:
After our climb on Grand Pilier D’Angle , the weather got bad. So, for a couple of days we did different activities in Chamonix area such as Mountain Biking, going to the swimming-pool, and some rock climb in Aiguille L’Index.
Finally on 10 July the weather got fine again. In that evening Silvia and I set our tent on the foot of Grand Capucin together with our friends from Romania Mihai Sima and Raimond. The plan of climbing Grand Capucin was made before leaving Romania both for us and them, and we kept sms each other about the weather conditions as we tried to find the perfect day for climbing it together. So, here we are all four of us, enjoying the sun-set view:
Before going to sleep, we reviewed again the Topo for Swiss Direct route . At 5.30 in the morning we got up, and left our tents by 6.30 am. There were other teams already in front of us crossing the bergschrund, but we hopped they will climb other routes in Grand Capucin. Unfortunately, 7 teams (including us) entered that day on the same route (“Swiss Direct”) while other two teams started on “O sole mio” and other team started on “Bonatti”. It was such a crowdy day because all of us waited so long for a good weather window which finally came.
We left our equipment (ice-axe, mountain boots, crampons) on a ledge at the base of the route and took with us only our rock gear as the descend was made by rappeling down the same route.
We made new friends on the route as we shared the same narrow belay places all the time. Some funny guys from Northern Ireland. As soon as the second climber arrives at the belay, the team leader starts the next pitch even the route is not clear. First we were a little confused, but than realized it’s the only way if we want to finish the climb in time and also to make room for others at the belay point. The route was not as dry as expected and our rock shoes got wet soon. But we didn’t mind too much, as the climb was very pleasant. We had to place a lot of nuts and cams and these require all our attention.
The seven pitch puts us to some aid climbing. One or two Irish teams decided to retreat from this point as they consider the time is too late for them. But we continued, together with Mihai and Raimond. We have climbed together all the way.
Next, there is a right traverse and a roof. One more short hard pitch and then two more easy pitches to the top of Grand Capucin. At 18:49 we make the picture on the summit. Such a nice view we have from here!
To get down, from the top of Grand Capucin, we made 5 long rappels (on the same route we climbed) using both ours and Mihai ropes. Right after the first long diagonal rappel (60-65 m), the rope jammed. Our problem was solved by the young Irish team above us. Thank you guys !
When the dark came, all four of us were safe at our tents having a hot drink and relaxing after an excellent granite climb on Grand Capucin.
By the way, did you know that Alex Huber climbed and downclimbed ropeless (via the same route taken to asscend) the “Swiss route” on Grand Capucin in 2008 ? Amazing ! You can read the article about his adventure here, and also here.
Topo for Grand Capucin Swiss route you can find here.
For a more detailed story of our climb written in Romanian, please check Silvia’s article.
Together with Silvia Murgescu, I climbed Checchinel-Nomine/Boivin-Vallencant (TD+/ED1, 5c, A1) between 02-04 July 2011. Watch below a short film we did with our climb:
This is a 900 m mixed route situated in the NE face of GPA (Grand Pilier d’Angle- 4308 m), that starts from the Brenva Glacier up to the top of GPA. From the summit of GPA you still have to climb 500 m to the top of Mont Blanc(4810m), which makes this route a major undertaking.
The idea of climbing GPA came to us one year ago while climbing Peuterey Integral . Then, on the top of GPA we met a French young team that climbed it’s NE face. At that moment climbing GPA NE face sounded like SF to us, but it became a dream for 2011.
What route to choose ? As all the routes in GPA are hard (at least TD+), we found inspiration in Jonathan Griffith’s blog. To combine Checchinel-Nomine/Boivin-Vallencant variant as they did, was our target. The below photo that belongs to Jonathan Griffith shows the line of our route:
When ? In our 2 weeks’ vacation on July 2011, we planned to climb only ice/mixed routes and GPA NE face was one of it. Everyone knows maybe that the ice/mixed routes are not in good condition in summer anymore. Everyone, except us… So, it was a big disappointment when Jonathan Griffith wrote me an Email saying we should switch plans for rock routes. Anyway, we decided to take all the gear with us (mixed and rock). 2 days before our leaving to Chamonix, Jonathan dropped me an Email saying the GPA was in good condition for the moment. YES, GREEN LIGHT, let’s go for it !
The story in short: on 2nd July we arrived in Chamonix, took our climbing gear and headed with the last cabin for Midi. As it was quite late, we found La Fourche bivouac packed (full). So, we continued to Col Moore and bivouacked on a ledge there. All night avalanches came down from the serac above Brenva Glacier. Not a nice place to spend the night…it gives you enough time to think if you really want to go for GPA. But we stood there. In the below photo, the red X marks the spot where we had bivouacked:
At 3 am on 3th July we’ve crossed diagonally right from Col Moore (we decided for this variant as it’s faster than making the 3 rappels down the face, though it’s more risky due to the stone fall) and then traverse the Brenva Glacier as fast as we could. We were lucky, as the Brenva was in silence. At 5 am we began climbing Checchinel-Nomine.
One hour later, a big avalanche dropped down below us on Brenva Glacier. Thanks God, we were safe on our route.
The crux pitch (5c, A1) was quite hard as it was all dry, no ice. At the top of hard section, I had to hammer one peg in order to make a traverse again right, on the ice gully. It took us more time than we expected…
As we were not acclimatized at all, after the crux I felt like I needed to rest for a while, so we found a ledge and began making tea with our Jetboil. We took a nap too. It was warm and relaxing. The idea of staying there for the night came to me, but Silvia refused it and encouraged me to pack and go. We decided to continue climbing, after a 3 hours stop.
The pitch for traversing right in the Boivin-Vallencant variant was dry also, but it was very easy.
On the upper part of Boivin-Vallencant we found black ice on the steeper section. It was the first time we had to deal with such ice, but we managed it quite well. It took us a lot of time, but felt like we learned a lot on the field just doing it.
At 8 pm we were exiting the route, unroping and heading to the summit of GPA to bivouac. It was a miserable night, as there was no platform but steep terrain and we had to stay roped in our harness. Not too much sleep…
Next morning (4th July) we left GPA at 6 am and found the snow in good conditions all the way up to the summit of Mont Blanc.
From the top of Mont Blanc, we descended via 3 Monts route. It began snowing and raining all at the time. I had no anti-snow on my Dart crampons, all the time I had to use the ice-axe to get rid of the snow. As it took me a lot of time to descend to Aig du Midi ,we didn’t make it in time for the last cabin. So we had to bivouac at the station, but this time it was warm and we had a good sleep. 🙂
Topo for Grand Pilier d’Angle North-East face you can find here.
The equipment we used on the route: 5 ice screws, 2 rock pegs, 10 quickdraws, a set of nuts, 4 cams, 2 Beal ice-lines of 50 m, Osprey talon 33 l backpacks, Jetboil, bivouac kit and of course 2 ice-axes with slings and ice-crampons.
For a full detailed story in Romanian with more pictures from our climb, please read Silvia’s article.
Peuterey Integral was our big project for the summer of 2010. Jon Griffith inspired us with his film on Peuterey. He was the first one I’ve contacted to ask about the route condition, the minimal equipment to use, the rope length, bivouac places, etc. Thanks Jon!
For this dream to come true, we have prepared in detail for one year both physically and mentally. Our previous experience in Alps was not huge at all: in 2009 we’ve climbed Matterhorn via Zmutt ridge, Eiger via Mittelegi ridge and Mont Blanc via 3 Monts. So, Peuterey Integral came as a real challenge to us, a real adventure. To be honest, I was more afraid about the rappels section from the top of Aig Noire than anything else. The facts now:
Together with my girlfriend Silvia Murgescu, we climbed Peuterey Integral (TD+ / 3 / 5c / VI ) between 05-08 July 2010. Enjoy the film we did:
For this long rute (more than 4500 m ascent on different types of terrain), we’ve tried to be careful and choose the lightest equipment we could afford to buy: light alloy ice-axe and crampons, light bivy kit.
Climbing Aig Noire South Ridge (the first section of Peuterey Integral ) where you have some steps of 5c with a big backpack it’s quite demanding. So, we managed to keep our backpacks under 10 kg and it was the right way to do it.
We left Borelli hut at 4 am and started our climb at 5 am at the foot of Pointe Gamba. We had to put on our climbing shoes. The climb was nice, but we had to stay focus all the time, not to get out of the route. Shortening the rope, we could simul climb the easy part of the route. As a guide book we used Damilano’s 2nd volume of “Snow, ice and mixed”.
Getting over the first step of 5c in Pointe Brendel gave us more confidence that we would do just fine on this long route.
One rappel and than more 5c steps on Pointe Ottoz – wich is the hardest-, but we found the right solution: I decide to take 2 kg from Silvia’s backpack and now she could lead in an excellent shape.
First bivouac: It was dark when we rappeled down from Pointe Bitch and found a small ledge somewhere between Pointe Bitch and Aig Noire summit. It was quite warm during the night, we were at 3725m and the temperature was maybe around +2 C.
In the morning of our second day on Peuterey Integral, we were enjoying the view we had towards Mt Blanc de Courmayeur with all the Freney basin in the left. As the sun is warming us in it’s orange light, we get up and make the summit picture on Aig Noire at 6.30 am.
From the top of Aig Noire we started the 400 m rappels on the NW ridge down to South Breshe of Dames Anglaises. As I remember, all the raps we did were 25 m except one long 50 m rap over an overhanging wall. We had to be very careful with the rock fall in the lower part section.
Once in the South Breshe, we found water melting from the snow. Just in time, as we were thirsty. Traversing to the North Breshe we found rock all decomposing around us. Not a safe place to be. We got to Craveri bivouac (3490 m) at 10 pm. Nobody there. We were lucky to find snow close to the small bivouac, so we could boil water and eat a hot meal. We took a good sleep. We got up only at 5 am and left from Craveri around 6 am. (Quite late I could say now… because of this, we didn’t make it that day on Mt Blanc and we had to make another bivy (the 3rd) just below Mt Blanc de Courmayeur fighting with the deep and soft snow up on Peuterey ridge (on the segment between Grand Pilier D’Angle and Mt Blanc de Courmayeur).
Easy but long climb all the way up to Aig Blanche de Peuterey (4112 m).
Traversing on the narrow ridge between the summits of Aig Blanche de Peuterey (SE, Centrale, NW) you feel like being part of something special. Such a lonely and fantastic place to be ! 4 raps of 30 m (we could do it in 4 x 25 m and a little easy down climb between them), jumping over the first bergschrund and we are at the Col de Peuterey. Crossing the second bergschrund and we are at the base of South Ridge of Grand Pilier D’Angle trying to identify the easiest point where to start our climb. It looks difficult at this point, but soon we find some pegs on a traverse to the right and we feel confident being on the right route. Easy climb again, but we are very tired. From the top of GPA (4308 m) we still have a long way to go up to MB de Courmayeur (4748m) and then MB (4810 m). We meet another party that climbed GPA north face and we are happy to see them. As we can hardly move up in the soft deep snow on the high Peuterey ridge, we realize we have to make our 3rd bivouac. We fight with the horrible snow till 12 pm and we bivy 200 m just bellow the MB Courmayeur summit on a rocky spot. It was a cold night at 4550 m. Brrrr…
In the morning we met again with the french party that climbed GPA. They were clever than us, as they stopped for the night on top of GPA and in the morning taking advantage of the cold, they climbed very fast the ridge that we found yesterday in horrible soft condition. Superb morning light reveal us all the Peuterey Integral ridge that we climbed till that point. Aig Noire, Aig Blanche, GPA arising from the clouds.
Finally we climbed over the cornice of MB de Courmayeur and in front of our eyes we could see the crowded summit of Mt Blanc. Suddenly we realized that we finished the long Peuterey Integral and we felt great joy in our hearts. We made some pictures on the top of Mt Blanc and then we started to descent on 3 Monts Traverse down to Aig du Midi- a route familiar to us, as we climbed up this easy route to summit Mt Blanc in the previous year.
Equipment we used for Peuterey Integral:
– a 50 m halph rope (8.6mm) for climbing and for most of the raps+ a 55 m cordelette (we used it together with the halph rope to make one full 50m rap on the N face of Noire). See the technique here.
– 4 cams (small and medium size) + 1 set of nuts, 8 quickdraws, 4 slings
– one ice-axe each (Petzl Snowracer) + one pair of aluminium crampons each (Grivel Airtech Light New Matic)
– a bivy bag (250g) each + a summer sleeping bag (600g) each + Z- lite Thermarest pad cutted in 2 pices (one for each). Also a stove and some freez dried food.
-All the photos in this article are copyright Catalin Pobega & Silvia Murgescu.
-For a full detail story in Romanian of this climb, please visit Silvia’s blog.
Below is Silvia's blog where you can find more climbs written in detail and documented with photos:
Are you looking for hiking or ski touring in Romania?