After climbing Ginat, we still had some time for a one day route. So, on 31 March 2012 we’ve climbed “Le Fil à Plomb” in Rognon du Plan. It’s a 700 m ice route, in the Aig du Midi N Face. See the topo here.
We’ve took the first cabin from Chamonix (7.30 am) up to the intermediate station- Plan de l’Aiguille (2340 m), passed the bergschrund at 8.50 am and finished the route by exiting in the notch next to Rognon du Plan (3601 m) at 11.50 am.
The main reason for climbing fast (3 hours) was that we were worried not to loose the last cabin descend to Chamonix, as the next day we had an airplane to catch back to Romania.
It was Saturday, and the route was very busy: 8 or 10 teams maybe. It felt like running a marathon, simul-climbing all the way except the crux (40 m ice at 85°-90°). See the film below:
Fil à Plomb Topo, the line of the route is in red (this photo is not my property):
In front of us many teams approaching Fil a Plomb:
Silvia on the left. From this point we rope up.
Passing the bergschrund…
Passing 2 teams.
At this point we stoped to take some pictures. In front of us we could see the crux. 2 team already there.
Me starting to climb the crux. Not to bad at all, the route is heavily frequented, you only have to hook with your ice axes.
Looking down the crux pitch, ropes all over the place.
Exiting the ice fall…
That’s our destination… Aig du Middi.
Reaching another 2 teams from behind… up there we can see the exit.
The final push up on easy ground.
2 italian teams in the notch.
There is Silvia coming.
Me getting some sun. Photo by Silvia.
Silvia enjoying the view…
Rognon du Plan in the background.
A lot of people at Aig du Middi.
Now we have time enough to make picture and admire the view.
Silvia in this wonderful land.
Skiers on their way to Vallee Blanche.
Last steps to Aig du Middi. Beautiful places left behind…we feel a little bit sad.
In the last week of March 2012, I was in the Alps with Silvia. Our main objective was Ginat in Les Droites. Topo for Ginat and more info about this superb route (approach, descent, slope inclination, difficulty, length) you can find here.
Enjoy the film we did during our climb on Ginat (click on HD and watch it on Vimeo for better resolution):
Our climb story: This route was on my mind since last year. I received precious information from Mihai Sima and Sorin Nichiforiuc (romanian team) after they climbed it back in March 2011. Thank you!
I’ve also found valuable information about the route conditions by reading the “Route Notebook” at www.ohm-chamonix.com and www.camptocamp.org
We arrived in Chamonix Saturday night (24 March 2012) and phoned to make a reservation at ref Argentiere (the start for Ginat). But everything was booked till Tuesday. Reason? Piolet d’Or Festival and ski season. So, we decided to see how are the conditions in “Linceul” in Grandes Jorasses N face (link). We slept one night at Leschaux refuge, but as the altitude is only 2431 m there, we didn’t make our acclimatization for Ginat (4000 m).
Tuesday (27 March) we stepped for the first time on Grands Montet summit (3233 m) surrounded by many skiers. First time for us in this area, and we enjoyed the view.
Going down from here, you cross Rognon glacier to Argentière glacier and on the right you can see Les Droites. Here is the spot where we’ve tried to observe and read our route, especially the start of it, as we had to climb it next day in the dark.
Silvia is studying the line from Argeniere refuge. Ginat route drawn in red color.
We found we are 4 teams targeting Ginat next day. One team was from UK, Wilki and Finn. Another team was from Switzerland, the guide’s name was Dani Arnold (holds the new record for speed climbing Eiger N face, as Finn told us.) He is a nice guy and very humble. He gave us more details about the route and answer to all my questions. He also told us how important is to take light skis with you in winter climbing if you want to be fast for approach and descend in the Alps. (Although we don’t go very often in the Alps, it seems we have a special luck in finding these Top guys. See here how we met Dean Potter on Eiger. At that time we didn’t know who was that guy base jumping.)
Next day, we woke up at 2 am and left the refuge at around 2:30 am. Dani Arnold with his partner were on their skis in front going very fast and we tried to keep up with the UK team. They were on rackets. We were by foot, so we had to make effort to keep up with them. At around 4:00 we got on the base of the route and Silvia was very keen to start climbing it.
After the first pitch, one team decided to retreat (it was a french guide with a girl I assume). The swiss team was way in the front. Next to us we had Wilki and Finn from UK. They have climbed with the same speed and belayed at the same spots where we belayed. It was nice to dialogue and share the same enthusiasm with them. When it was my turn I had a small mixed pitch (easy) followed by tough ice (15-20 m) which I didn’t like. After that, we made a left traverse and found good ice all the way up trough the big ice slope situated in the middle of the wall. On this section we simul-climbed.
Below is a picture with us in the route (green spots). Sorin Nichiforiuc did this photo from refuge Argentiere, where he was at that moment. Thanks!
As we climbed higher and we were not acclimatized, soon we began to feel the effort. The route is long (1000m) and we felt our calves burning. Not difficult, but long.
Finn and Wilki did some great photos. Below is an examples that shows Silvia climbing and the exposure of the route.
Once the big ice field was climbed, I’ve faced a mixed pitch (80°) traversing right.
Wilki and Finn climbing the mixed pitch.
It was getting late, but we were very excited about the view we had towards Argentiere Glacier. At some point (about sunset), it was breathtaking.
Another maybe 2 pitches and the slope got steep again.
As the light goes down, we shot the last pictures.
Silvia exiting in the notch (Breche) of Les Droites. It was midnight already.
Finn and Wilki decided to have a brew stop and to take a nap on the ledge there (they had their bivy bags). They planned to start to rappel on the Southern side in the morning. We also had a brew stop, I love my Jetboil! Hot tea and some warm tomato soup. It was cold and our Emergency blanket didn’t work as it was also windy. So, we started rappeling on the Southern side (towards Couvercle hut) at 3:30 am and by the time we got down on the glacier it was morning already and we could see the path very clearly.
A feeling of “Déjà Vu” came to me when I saw Grandes Jorasses N face early in the morning.
Up there in the notch is where we’ve been last night.
Though we were tired, we didn’t stop at Couvercle refuge. We’ve spend some time to warm in the sun and than went down to Mer du Glace glacier. I love this picture that Silvia did.
The train from Montenvers took us directly in Chamonix where Silvia had a big ice cream, as she realy deserved it. Yes, “ice” again.
Things to know about the route:
Although it’s refer as an entirely ice route in the guide book, in the last years this is not real anymore. There are 2 mixed pitches in the route, not dificult (made our climb more interesting and fun). The first one is right after passing the bergschrund followed by a 15 m of horrible black ice. You will be climbing this in the dark! The last mixed pitch (30 m maybe) is after the big ice slope, when making the traverse to the right (in our film, minute 5:48). We found a peg (piton) there. We used some nuts for protection also.
Our equipment: 2 half ropes Beal Iceline, 50 m (this length is ok for the descend by rappelling on the Southern side too), 8 ice screws, 10 quickdraws, a set of nuts (we use medium and big size mostly), 4 cams (used maybe 2, small size), 2 long slings for belay. We had our Jetboil (stove) with us and 1.5 l water for each during the climb. Bear in mind the face is 1000 m high.
Together with Silvia Murgescu, we climbed Grand Capucin on Swiss Direct route on 11 July 2011. A short film with our climb below:
After our climb on Grand Pilier D’Angle , the weather got bad. So, for a couple of days we did different activities in Chamonix area such as Mountain Biking, going to the swimming-pool, and some rock climb in Aiguille L’Index.
Finally on 10 July the weather got fine again. In that evening Silvia and I set our tent on the foot of Grand Capucin together with our friends from Romania Mihai Sima and Raimond. The plan of climbing Grand Capucin was made before leaving Romania both for us and them, and we kept sms each other about the weather conditions as we tried to find the perfect day for climbing it together. So, here we are all four of us, enjoying the sun-set view:
Before going to sleep, we reviewed again the Topo for Swiss Direct route . At 5.30 in the morning we got up, and left our tents by 6.30 am. There were other teams already in front of us crossing the bergschrund, but we hopped they will climb other routes in Grand Capucin. Unfortunately, 7 teams (including us) entered that day on the same route (“Swiss Direct”) while other two teams started on ”O sole mio” and other team started on “Bonatti”. It was such a crowdy day because all of us waited so long for a good weather window which finally came.
We left our equipment (ice-axe, mountain boots, crampons) on a ledge at the base of the route and took with us only our rock gear as the descend was made by rappeling down the same route.
We made new friends on the route as we shared the same narrow belay places all the time. Some funny guys from Northern Ireland. As soon as the second climber arrives at the belay, the team leader starts the next pitch even the route is not clear. First we were a little confused, but than realized it’s the only way if we want to finish the climb in time and also to make room for others at the belay point. The route was not as dry as expected and our rock shoes got wet soon. But we didn’t mind too much, as the climb was very pleasant. We had to place a lot of nuts and cams and these require all our attention.
The seven pitch puts us to some aid climbing. One or two Irish teams decided to retreat from this point as they consider the time is too late for them. But we continued, together with Mihai and Raimond. We have climbed together all the way.
Next, there is a right traverse and a roof. One more short hard pitch and then two more easy pitches to the top of Grand Capucin. At 18:49 we make the picture on the summit. Such a nice view we have from here!
To get down, from the top of Grand Capucin, we made 5 long rappels (on the same route we climbed) using both ours and Mihai ropes. Right after the first long diagonal rappel (60-65 m), the rope jammed. Our problem was solved by the young Irish team above us. Thank you guys !
When the dark came, all four of us were safe at our tents having a hot drink and relaxing after an excellent granite climb on Grand Capucin.
By the way, did you know that Alex Huber climbed and downclimbed ropeless (via the same route taken to asscend) the “Swiss route” on Grand Capucin in 2008 ? Amazing ! You can read the article about his adventure here, and also here.
Topo for Grand Capucin Swiss route you can find here.
For a more detailed story of our climb written in Romanian, please check Silvia’s article.
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In front of us many teams approaching Fil a Plomb:
